Domestic Water Piping Design Guide

1.0 INTRODUCTION

A domestic water system describes the indoor and outdoor potable water distribution system. It includes the connection to the water supply, whether it is an underground central city, county, state or federal distribution system or a private well. The domestic water system includes above-ground and below-ground piping, valves, fittings, ancillary equipment and the various plumbing fixtures that use the potable water.

Domestic Water Piping Layout

Figure 1: This figure shows an example of a domestic water distribution system (only cold water) for a commercial kitchen. This figure will be used to exemplify how a domestic water system is sized.

1.1 UNITS

The primary units that are used in this calculator and guide are the United States Customary System Units (USCS). However, there will be another version provided in International System of Units (SI). This version is not guaranteed and is not included with the purchase of this product.

2.0 DISCLAIMER

In no event will Engineering Pro Guides be liable for any incidental, indirect, consequential, punitive or special damages of any kind, or any other damages whatsoever, including, without limitation, those resulting from loss of profit, loss of contracts, loss of reputation, goodwill, data, information, income, anticipated savings or business relationships, whether or not Engineering Pro Guides has been advised of the possibility of such damage, arising out of or in connection with the use of this document/software or any referenced documents and/or websites.

This design guide book and calculator was created for the design of primarily commercial and residential domestic water systems. Although these products can be used for industrial type systems, the intricacies of industrial type plumbing fixtures make it very difficult and it is not recommended that you use this calculator industrial purposes.

3.0 PLUMBING CODES

The design of a plumbing system is greatly influenced by your applicable codes. The most common plumbing codes are the (1) International Plumbing Code or IPC, (2) Uniform Plumbing Code or UPC and (3) Unified Facilities Criteria Plumbing Systems or UFC 3-420-01 Plumbing Systems. Each plumbing design will follow under a certain jurisdiction, which is the governing power that makes the legal determinations and interpretations of the code. For example, a job may be on a federal base, which means the federal government has jurisdiction. This jurisdiction then determines that all plumbing designs must follow UFC 3-420-01 Plumbing Systems. If you do a job for a state government property, then that state has jurisdiction and you need to check with the jurisdiction for the applicable code. There are many different jurisdictions like federal, state, city and county. Each of these jurisdictions will tell you which code to follow, whether it is IPC, UPC or UFC and each of the jurisdictions may have adapted the code to fit their specific location’s needs.

This design guide will focus on the two most applicable codes, UPC and IPC. Just be sure to search through your jurisdiction for any adaptations.

3.1 APPLICABLE SYSTEMS

Plumbing systems include domestic water (cold and hot), sanitary sewer and vent, storm drain, special waste like grease and special systems (oxygen, fuel-gas, vacuum, nitrogen).

This design guide focuses on domestic water systems, primarily cold water. Hot water is not including in this design guide. This design guide focuses on the domestic water piping, plumbing fixtures, valves, booster pumps and other miscellaneous design issues related to the design of domestic cold water systems.

3.2 Water Supply Fixture Units

Prior to sizing a domestic water system and determining pipe sizes it is important to understand the concept of fixture units. Water Supply Fixture Units (WSFU) is the standard method for estimating the water demand for a building. This system assigns an arbitrary value called a WSFU to each fixture in a building, based on the amount of water required and the frequency of use.

For example, a water closet (tank) is assigned a WSFU of 2.2 fixture units (FU) while a sink (lavatory) is assigned 0.7 FU. These values are based on the International Plumbing Code Water Supply Fixture Unit table. The difference in fixture units is due to the fact that a toilet requires more water than a sink. The frequency of use between a private sink and a water closet would be the same, since a person will normally use the water closet and the sink within the same bathroom visit. A public water closet has a WSFU value of 5.0. Even though the water closet (tank) is the same as the private water closet and uses the same amount of water, a public water closet has a higher WSFU value. The public water closet has a higher usage frequency, which increases the WSFU value.

IPC: The international plumbing code or IPC uses the following water supply fixture unit table.

International Plumbing Code Water Supply Fixture Unit (WSFU) Table

The water supply fixture units are distinguished between cold, hot or both. If a plumbing line serves only the cold water side of a fixture, then the corresponding value should be used. For example, a main line may serve the both cold and hot water, but then a branch line may go to the hot water heater. The branch line would only use the hot water value.

If a plumbing fixture is not available in the table below, then a fixture unit value can be assigned by the designer or engineer. Typically, a similar plumbing fixture that has a similar maximum flow rate and frequency of use will be selected. If the plumbing fixture will be on for long periods of time, then the volumetric flow rate can be inserted into the domestic water piping calculator.

4.0 DOMESTIC WATER PIPE SIZING

The sizing of domestic water supply system must be based on the minimum pressure available for the building in question. The designer must ensure that the required pressure is maintained at the most hydraulically remote fixture and that proper and adequate quantities of flow are maintained at all fixtures. In addition, the designer must ensure that reasonable velocities are maintained in all piping. The velocity of water flowing in a pipe should not exceed 10 feet/sec and should be designed for 7-8 feet per second or less, because high velocities will increase the rate of corrosion leading to pipe failure and cause undesirable noises in the system and increase the possibility of hydraulic shock. The designer should compute and/or know the following:

  1. Hydraulically remote fixture
  2. Available main pressure
  3. Pressure required at individual fixtures
  4. Static pressure losses (height of highest fixture relative to main pressure)
  5. Water demand (total system, and each branch, fixture)
  6. Pressure loss due to friction
  7. Velocity

Hydraulically Remote Fixture: The most remote fixture is the fixture that is the furthest distance away from the main domestic water supply point. The most hydraulically remote fixture is the fixture that is not necessarily the furthest away but the fixture that will have the least pressure given the projected water demand.

Available Main Pressure: The civil or fire protection engineer will typically investigate the main water pressure available at the project site. This pressure will determine the starting point for the pressure loss calculations. If there is insufficient pressure available to meet the pressure required at the individual fixtures, then a booster pump will be required. In addition, if the pressure is too high, then a pressure regulating valve will be required. High pressures at the plumbing fixture can lead to unsafe operation and unnecessary water loss.

Pressure at Individual Fixtures: The mechanical engineer should research the plumbing fixtures and determine the required pressure. For example, tank water closets only require 5 psig, while flush valve water closets can require 15 psig. Each plumbing fixture will have a different pressure requirement. Even different manufacturers of similar plumbing fixtures will have a different pressure requirement.

Static Pressure Losses: The static pressure losses are found by taking the difference between the initial elevation at the available main pressure point and the final elevation at the hydraulically remote fixture.

Friction Loss: The friction losses are determined by finding the flow rate, velocity, pipe size, pipe roughness for the entire hydraulically remote run. Friction losses can be due to the viscous forces of fluid flowing through the pipe and similar losses through fittings like elbows and tees. Lastly, friction losses are also due to miscellaneous equipment like water meters, valves, backflow preventers, pressure regulating valves, etc.

Water Demand: The water demand is the projected flow rate. The projected flow rate is based on the water supply fixture units and any other continuously operated fixtures. The water demand is important because as the water demand increases, there will be an increase in friction losses. This will reduce the pressure at the hydraulically remote fixture. Thus, the water demand must be checked along with the pressure at the hydraulically remote fixture.

Velocity: Based on the water demand, the projected velocity can also be found. The velocity within the piping must be limited in order to avoid excessive noise, water hammer and increased pipe erosion.

4.1 MAIN AND BRANCH PIPING SIZING

It is very difficult to quickly obtain the velocity, water demand, friction loss and static pressure losses within a piping system, just to size the plumbing lines. Often times, estimates are used to size the main and branch piping, which can lead to inaccuracies and increased pressure losses or oversized piping. These estimates typically consists of a table of copper pipe sizes and the maximum fixture units that each pipe size can serve. The designer will sum the WSFUs that are served by each pipe and then choose a pipe size that can accommodate the total WSFUs.

This process is exactly the same as the previous process, with a table and the maximum WSFUs for each pipe size. Except, the table can be customized for any pipe material, tank or flush valve and for any range of velocities and pressure drops. The previous process determined the maximum WSFUs for a pipe size based on some random velocity limitation and/or pressure loss limitation. However, higher velocities can be accommodated in certain areas where water hammer and noise are not an issue. Higher pressure drops can also be accommodated on piping that is not part of the hydraulically remote run.

In both processes, the piping layout must be completed. The piping layout consists of the geometrical arrangement of the pipes from the water supply to all plumbing fixtures.

4.1.1 STEP 1: DETERMINE WSFU

The water supply fixtures units (WSFU) fed by a pipe is determined by the number of each plumbing fixture that is connected to the pipe and the governing plumbing code. The plumbing code establishes the WSFU value for each fixture type. The piping layout determines the amount of each fixture type that is fed by each pipe.

4.1.2 STEP 2: CONVERT WSFU TO GPM

The next step is to convert the WSFU value to gallons per minute (GPM). This volumetric flow rate will help to determine the pressure drop and fluid velocity within the pipe in the next and final step. The conversion from WSFU to GPM will depend on whether or not the connected fixtures are predominantly flush valve type or tank type.

Flush Valve vs. Tank: This distinction is common of toilets. A tank type toilet uses the tank fluid elevation to forcefully flush the toilet waste through the waste system. After a tank toilet is flushed, a fill line is used to fill up the tank. The fill time is typically around 20 seconds. At a residence or where there is infrequent use, this fill time is acceptable. However, in a public space with frequent use, this fill time is not acceptable. A flush valve toilet is used in these situations. A flush valve type toilet does not have a tank to provide the pressure to force the waste into the waste system. Thus, a flush valve toilet will require a much higher minimum pressure.

Table 1:  This table shows that tank type water closets require less pressure and a lower flow rate than flush valve type water closets.

Table 1: This table shows that tank type water closets require less pressure and a lower flow rate than flush valve type water closets.

A pipe that feeds predominantly flush valve type fixtures will have a greater volumetric flow rate requirement than a pipe that feeds predominantly tank type fixtures.

Table 2:  This table shows the WSFU to GPM conversion difference between a predominantly tank type versus a predominantly flush valve type.

Table 2: This table shows the WSFU to GPM conversion difference between a predominantly tank type versus a predominantly flush valve type.

Predominantly Flush vs. Tank Type: A group of plumbing fixtures is considered predominantly flush valve if the group has more than one flush valve for every ten tank type water closets. Other companies may use a different determination, but the reasoning is that one flush valve type water closet has a significant impact to the maximum flow rate for a pipe, as shown by the table that showed the fill velocity as 32 GPM versus 2 GPM. If there is a branch run that serves no flush valve type water closets, then that branch can use the predominantly tank type WSFU to GPM conversion. But all pipes downstream from a predominantly flush valve type branch will need to be sized with the same conversion, unless the amount of tank type water closets becomes much greater than the amount of flush valve type water closets.

4.1.3 STEP 3: QUICK SIZING TABLE

Once the WSFU and the appropriate GPM conversion are determined, then the quick sizing table can be used to select the appropriate pipe size. The first step in using this table is to select the pipe material, pipe sub-type, predominantly tank/valve and the C-value. The pipe materials, C-values and sub-types are discussed in a subsequent section in this guide. The tank vs. flush valve type has been discussed earlier in this section. The C-factor describes the pipe smoothness. Steel pipes are given a C-factor of 100 and smoother pipes have a higher C-factor and rougher pipes have a lower value. For example, copper’s C-factor is typically 135 to 150, CPVC & PVC is 150.

Domestic water quick sizing table inputs

Figure 2: The first step in using the custom quick sizing tables is to select the pipe material, sub-type, valve or tank and the C-value.

Once the pipe information has been entered, then the next step is to determine what are the acceptable velocities and pressure drops within the pipes. This will vary between each situation and each company. Each company will have its own standards, but below is a brief discussion on the typical acceptable velocities and pressure drops.

Sizing Based on Velocity: The typical ideal pipe fluid velocities for a domestic water system are between 4 and 8 feet per second (fps). Less ideal velocities are between 2 and 4 fps and 8 to 10 fps. At higher velocities, 6 to 10 fps, there will be increased erosion over time and noise during operation. At the lower velocities 2 to 6 fps, erosion and noise will not be a concern, but there may be a stagnation concern and there will be an inefficient use of money.

Velocity Pressure: The pressure drop through fittings is dependent on the velocity pressure, which is dependent on the fluid velocity. At higher velocities, the pressure drop through a fitting will be significant and may lead to insufficient pressure at the fixtures. The equation used to solve for velocity pressure is shown below.

Velocity pressure equation

The pressure drop through fittings is found by multiplying the velocity pressure by a K-factor that is used to characterize the fitting geometry, fitting size and turbulence within the fitting. A typical fitting is a 90 degree long radius elbow with a K-factor of 0.24. The table below shows the pressure loss of ten 90-degree elbows at varying velocities.

pressure drop of 10 copper standard radius elbows at varying velocities

Figure 3: A greater velocity will cause increased pressure drop through fittings.

A lower velocity is more suitable for pipe runs with a lot of fittings. If there is sufficient pressure, then a higher velocity can be accommodated.

Sizing Based on Pressure Drop: The second method used to size pipes is through an acceptable pressure drop per 100 feet. The typical values range from 1.7 to 3.4 psi per 100 feet of piping or 4 to 8 feet of head per 100 feet of piping. Less ideal values range from 1 to 1.7 and 3.4 to 4 psi per 100 feet of piping. The lower pressure drop range is less ideal because it means the piping is oversized. The upper range is less ideal, because it may lead to insufficient pressure at the plumbing fixtures.

The pressure drop is determined through the Hazen-Williams equation. This equation is shown below. This equation is not accurate for laminar flow and for extremely turbulent flow. However, this equation is very useful for the typical velocities of 2 to 10 fps and higher velocities.

Hazen williams, and acceptable velocity and pressure drops for domestic water piping.

Figure 4: The second step is to determine the acceptable pipe sizing criteria. Pipes can be sized based on pressure drop, velocity or both. This part of the calculator allows you to pick your preferred range in green and your acceptable range on the high side and low side in yellow.

Domestic water piping custom quick sizing table

Figure 5: This figure shows a snippet of the quick sizing table based on the previous inputs. The green indicates a velocity or pressure loss value within the ideal range. Yellow indicates a value within the acceptable but not ideal range.

The pressure drop values are not as accurate for the lower and higher velocities. This is because the quick sizing calculator uses the Hazen Williams equation as opposed to the Darcy Weisbach equation.

4.2 FIXTURE PIPING SIZING

The pipes that directly feed the fixtures are sized based on the table below. These pipes are the rough-in pipes that connect to the branch pipes. Do not get this pipe confused with the fixture connection pipe. The fixture manufacturer will indicate the fixture connection sizes, but these sizes typically refer to the braided hose sizes and not the rough-in pipes. A rough-in pipe will typically be copper, which will be soldered to a dielectric union. On the other end of the dielectric union will be a threaded metal fitting. A shut off valve can be connected to this metal fitting, followed by a braided hose. The braided hose is then connected to the fixture piping connection. The size of the braided hose is determined by the fixture manufacturer.

Minimum pipe size for various plumbing fixtures

Table 3: This table shows the rough-in, pipe size for various plumbing fixtures.

4.3 SAMPLE PIPE SIZING DISCUSSION

Now, you can use the quick sizing table to go through the piping layout and assign sizes to each pipe segment based on the connected WSFU values. The next part of this guide will take you through a sample layout, based on Copper Type K tubing. The sample layout is shown on the following page, but the discussion starts below.

Sample domestic water layout with water supply fixture units, pressure loss and pipe sizes

Figure 6: This figure shows a sample cold water distribution system, with each plumbing fixture labeled with its IPC WSFU values for cold water only. In addition, the flow direction is shown and the lengths of each pipe segment. Finally, the initial point, “A” shows a starting pressure of 50 psi and the minimum required pressure values are also shown.

Size B-C Segment (1.5 WSFU = 1/2”): The first segment that will be sized will be segment B-C, which only serves a lavatory. Since this line only serves a single fixture then you can use the fixture table, which indicates that the minimum pipe size as 3/8”. However, the pipe length is fairly long and according to the quick sizing table, there will be a large pressure drop. So a 1/2” pipe should be used for the long run. The individual connection to the fixture will be 3/8”.

Size E-D Segment (3 WSFU = 3/4”): The next segment that will be sized will be segment E-D, which only serves a washing machine. At 3 WSFU, the quick sizing table will need a 3/4” pipe. If you also check commercial washing machine product data, you will also find that the typical connection size is 3/4” for both cold and hot water.

Size H-I Segment (3 WSFU = 3/4”): The next segment that will be sized will be segment H-I, which only serves a kitchen sink. At 3 WSFU, the quick sizing table will need a 3/4” pipe. If you also check commercial kitchen sink product data, you will also find that the typical connection size is 1/2” for both cold and hot water. For the individual fixture piping, you should use a 1/2” pipe but for the H-I, you should use a 3/4” pipe.

Size G-H Segment (6 WSFU = 1”): This segment serves two kitchen sinks, which totals to 6 WSFU. The quick sizing table indicates that this pipe should be 1”.

Size F-G Segment (9 WSFU = 1-1/4”): This segment serves three kitchen sinks, which totals to 9 WSFU. The quick sizing table indicates a pipe size of 1-1/4”.

Size B-F Segment (12 WSFU = 1-1/4”): This segment serves four kitchen sinks, which totals to 12 WSFU. The quick sizing table indicates a pipe size of 1-1/4”.

Size B-D Segment (4 WSFU = 1”): This segment serves one washing machine and one laundry tray, which totals to 4 WSFU. The pipe size should be 1”.

Size A-B Segment (17.5 WSFU = 1-1/4”): This segment serves four kitchen sinks, one lavatory, one washing machine and one laundry tray, which totals to 17.5 WSFU. The quick sizing table indicates a 1-1/4” pipe.

Sample domestic water layout with water supply fixture units, pressure loss and pipe sizes results

Figure 7: This figure shows the results of the pipe sizing example. The pipe sizes are determined based on the quick sizing table for Type K Copper Tubing.

5.0 Domestic Water Pressure Calculator

Once the designer has completed the first pass of the pipe routing and sizing, the designer can use the excel file, Domestic Water Calculations.xls in order to determine the pressure loss of the piping, fittings and miscellaneous equipment. This will determine if there is sufficient pressure at the most hydraulically remote fixture. If there is not sufficient pressure, then a domestic water booster pump will be required.

Results of the domestic water pressure calculator

Figure 8: The calculator will automatically output the above results. This shows the pressure loss due to piping, fittings, miscellaneous equipment, valves and elevation change. Then the calculator compares the final pressure at the hydraulically remote fixture to the required minimum pressure at the hydraulically remote fixture.

The first step in using the domestic water pressure calculator sheet is to input the basic water information shown below.

Input the basic water information for the domestic water pressure calculator

Figure 9: The water information is the first set of inputs required for an output from the domestic water piping pressure calculator. The temperature determines the kinematic viscosity. The initial pressure is typically provided by a civil engineer, fire protection designer or by a city/county/state/federal utility provider. The initial and final elevation is shown in feet above finished grade. The difference between these two values determines the static pressure loss. The fixture type is used to determine the WSFU to GPM conversion. The minimum pressure is the lowest pressure required at the hydraulically remote fixture.

The second step is to insert the piping information.

Input the piping information for the domestic water pressure calculator

Figure 10: The second step involves inserting the basic piping information for each pipe section. A pipe section changes whenever the pipe size/material or the fixtures served by the pipe changes.

The third step is to add the fixtures that are served by each piping section.

Input the fixtures attached to each pipe section for the domestic water pressure calculator

Figure 11: The fixtures served by the pipe determine the WSFU value, which then determines the flow rate within the pipe section.

The fourth step is to check the velocities and piping pressure losses. If the velocities or pressures are not acceptable, then you may need to adjust the pipe size.

The domestic water pressure calculator calculates the WSFU, GPM, velocity and piping pressure loss in each pipe section.

Figure 12: Check the velocity and pressure drop for anything out of the acceptable or ideal ranges.

The valves and fittings section requires you to put in the values for each fitting that are on a certain pipe section. A pipe section is defined as having the same flow rate and same pipe information.

Input the fittings and valves attached to each pipe section.

Figure 13: These are the possible fittings that are built-into the calculator. If your fitting is not present, then look for a similar fitting and adjust the K-values for the fitting as shown in the following sections.

The next step is to insert the pressure loss for any miscellaneous equipment like a water meter or backflow preventer.

Input the miscellaneous equipment and determine the pressure loss for each pipe section.

Figure 14: The pressure loss due to equipment is specific to the manufacturer of the equipment. You should check the manufacturer product data for this information, but you should also remember that the pressure loss is specific to a certain flow rate. If your flow rate is different, then you will need to adjust the pressure drop to match your application.

Input the miscellaneous equipment and determine the pressure loss for each pipe section.

Figure 15: The calculator automatically determines the K-total from all the fittings, the velocity pressure, Reynolds number and the pressure loss due to the fittings/valves.

Following all of the previous steps, the calculator with then determine whether or not you need a booster pump and will also determine the available pressure at the hydraulically remote fixture.

The following sections will discuss in more details the equations used to determine the following items within the calculator: Fluid Velocity, Reynolds Number, Friction Factor and Pressure Drop due to Piping, Fitting, Valves and Equipment.

5.1 FLUID VELOCITY

The first equation uses the inputs from the pipe information section and the user input flow rate to find the fluid velocity in the pipe. When you choose the pipe material, pipe type and pipe size, the calculator will automatically determine the inner area from the table within the references. If the combination of pipe material, pipe type and pipe size is not in the calculator then a “N/A” will appear in the velocity column. You should double check to make sure the combination exists before proceeding.

Velocity equation

5.2 REYNOLDS NUMBER

The next equation calculates the Reynolds Number. This equation uses the velocity from the previous equation along with the pipe inner diameter and the fluid properties (density & viscosity).

Reynolds number equation

The Reynolds Number classifies the fluid flow into either (1) Laminar, (2) Transition or (3) Turbulent. The breakdown between these three classifications is defined below. The friction calculations are most accurate with fluid flow in the turbulent region. For this reason, the calculator will highlight in red any Reynolds Number that is below the turbulent region.

Reynolds number ranges for laminar and turbulent flow

5.3 FRICTION FACTOR

The friction factor is found through the Colebrook Equation. The Colebrook Equation relates the friction factor to the Reynolds Number and the relative roughness.

Colebrook friction factor equation

Iterative Process: Since the friction coefficient is on both sides of the equation, you must use an iterative process to find the friction coefficient. You must first choose a value for the friction coefficient on the right side of the equation and then solve for the friction coefficient on the left side. Then use the friction coefficient that you just computed and plug-in this value to the right side of the equation and repeat the process. The process ends when the right and left side friction coefficients converge to nearly the same number. The calculator completes this process by running nine iterations.

Turbulent Flow: This equation only works for turbulent flow. A different equation is used for laminar flow. Luckily in practical chilled water applications, flow is nearly always turbulent. However, the calculator does incorporate conditional formatting to visually tell you if the flow is not turbulent. You should use your knowledge of the turbulent range from the previous section to ensure that your flow calculations are in the turbulent range.

5.4 PRESSURE DROP – PIPING & VALVES/FITTINGS

The pressure drop for a straight length of piping is found through the friction factor and the Darcy Weisbach equation. This equation uses the velocity, friction factor, pipe inner diameter and the length of piping to calculate the pressure drop. For more details, see the equation below. The output for this equation is the pressure drop in units of feet head.

Darcy Weisbach equation

The pressure drop through valves and fittings is found through the 3-K method. The 3-K method uses three K-values to characterize each type of valve and fitting. These three K-values are K1, Kinf and Kd. These K-values are used with the Reynolds Number and nominal pipe diameter to find the final K-value.

3K method pressure drop through fittings and valves

Since, the calculated K-value is a function of Reynolds Number and nominal pipe diameter, the K-value is applicable for various pipe sizes, pipe materials, fluids and fluid velocities. Once you have the K-value, the K-value is used to calculate the pressure drop through the valves and fittings.

3K method pressure drop through fittings and valves part 2

5.5 PRESSURE DROP – EQUIPMENT

There are no equations governing the pressure drop in equipment section. In this section of the calculator you can input the values for pressure drop at equipment. Typical equipment includes strainers, filters, flow meters, control valves and backflow-preventers. The pressure drop through this equipment at a specified flow rate must be provided by the manufacturer of the equipment. Typically, the manufacturer will provide a single value that indicates the pressure drop at a specified flow rate (GPM). Other times, a manufacturer will provide a graph that shows the pressure drop at various flow rates. This is typical of flow meters, control valves and strainers.

5.6 JOINING METHOD

In the fittings and valves section, you must choose the joining method. The available joining methods are flanged and threaded. Threaded fittings are the same as soldered, brazed and pressed fittings, for fluid dynamics purposes and for the calculator. Most often in the domestic water systems, you will use the flanged fittings. Threaded fittings are not often used for domestic water systems.

5.6.1 SOLDERING

Soldering is the primary method used to join copper for a building’s domestic water system. The American Welding Society defines soldering as “a group of joining processes that produce coalescence of materials by heating them to a soldering temperature and by using a filler metal (solder) having a liquidous not exceeding 840 F and below the solidus of the base metals.”

Soldering is different from brazing because it uses a lower temperature for the melting of the filler metal. It is different from welding because welding requires the two metals that are being joined to be melted.

The soldering process is fairly long when compared to the Propress system, shown below. Both processes involve proper measuring and cutting of the pipe. Once the pipe is cut it must be reamed, in order to provide a smooth surface for better flow. The pipe must then be cleaned, because the removal of all oxides and surface soil is necessary for the solder to properly flow onto the joint. A flux is a substance that will dissolve and remove traces of oxide from the pipe. Thus prior to assembling the two copper tube into the fitting the fitting and tube must be fluxed. Once this is complete and the tube and fitting are situated correctly, then the joint area can be heated and the solder can be applied.

5.6.2 BRAZING

Brazing is the joining of two materials using a third dissimilar material. This differs from soldering because it uses a higher temperature for melting the filler material. The brazing process is fairly similar to the soldering process. However, brazing occurs in the range between 1200 and 1550 F while soldering occurs below 840 F. Brazing is required when routing piping in the slab, according to UPC soldered joints on copper lines run under a slab are restricted. When running copper under a slab, wrought copper fittings are required and all joints must be brazed.

5.6.3 PRESS CONNECTION (PROPRESS)

This is the newest method of joining copper tubing, it was unveiled in 1999. It is more than on its way to becoming the favored joining method by many contractors because of the ease of installation. This system involves pre-engineered copper fittings, ranging from sizes from ½” to 4”.

6.0 PIPE MATERIALS

The most common inside building water distribution piping is copper. But this guide will cover other materials and their uses, properties, advantages and disadvantages.

There are other pipes available for use in the calculator but you can also add your own pipe information. The pipes built-in to the calculator include ASTM A53 Steel (Schedule 40 & 80), ASTM B88 Copper (Type K, L & M), ASTM D2241 PVC (SDR 26), ASTM F2389 Polypropylene (DR 9), ABS ASTM D1527, ABS ASTM D 2282, Brass Regular and Extra, CPVC ASTM F441 and F442, PEX, Ductile Iron, Galvanized Steel and Stainless Steel 304 & 316. These are the most common pipes used in chilled water pipe application. If you have a special case, then please use the references sheet to add in your pipe information or contact Justin via email contact@engproguides.com.

Figure 16:  This figure is a sample of the pipe information built-in to the calculator, references tab.

Figure 16: This figure is a sample of the pipe information built-in to the calculator, references tab.

Each pipe material and pipe type within that pipe material have its own standard pipe sizes. For example, Schedule 40 Steel does not have a 5/8 inch pipe size. When you change pipe materials and pipe types, please also change the pipe size to ensure the pipe size you want is available within the standard. The calculator will give you an error if you select a non-standard pipe size within the pipe material & type.

6.1 ABS PIPING

ABS stands for Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene. This piping is most often used for drainage, waste and vent systems and not used for domestic water systems. You can often see this pipe serving the waste for plumbing systems and it is often black. This piping is light and somewhat flexible and suitable for temperatures between -30 °F to 140 °F. Just like other plastic piping, ABS is not suitable for outdoor conditions when exposed to sunlight. The UV rays will degrade the ABS piping.

There are two standards that govern ABS piping, (1) ASTM D 1527 and ASTM D 2282. ASTM D 1527 is titled Standard Specification for Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) Plastic Pipe, Schedules 40 and 80. ASTM D 2282 is titled Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) Plastic Pipe, SDR-PR. These two standards give the dimensions and tolerances for the various ABS pipe types.

6.1.1 ASTM D 1527 SCHEDULE 40 & SCHEDULE 80

The pipe schedule describes the thickness and pressure rating for each pipe size. Schedule 80 has thicker walls than schedule 40 and thus schedule 80 piping has a higher pressure rating than schedule 40 piping. Schedule 40 and Schedule 80 piping have the same outside diameter, but their thicknesses are different. The schedule 80 piping has a greater thickness, which makes the inside diameter smaller when compared to schedule 40 piping.

Table 4:  This table shows the pipe dimensions for schedule 40 ABS plastic piping in accordance with ASTM D 1527.

Table 4: This table shows the pipe dimensions for schedule 40 ABS plastic piping in accordance with ASTM D 1527.

Pipes will typically have the same outer diameter, because this allows pipes of different schedules to be joined together. As you can see, schedule 80 piping has the same outer diameter as schedule 40 piping for each specific pipe size. However, the inner diameter is smaller because the schedule 80 pipe has thicker walls.

Table 5: This table shows the pipe dimensions for schedule 80 ABS plastic piping in accordance with ASTM D 1527.

Table 5: This table shows the pipe dimensions for schedule 80 ABS plastic piping in accordance with ASTM D 1527.

6.1.2 ASTM D 2282 STANDARD DIMENSION RATIO (SDR)

The Standard Dimension Ratio or SDR describes the relationship between the pipe outer diameter and the thickness of the pipe wall.

For example, SDR 17 for an outside diameter of 1.315 inches will have a pipe thickness of 0.077 inches and 0.063 inches for SDR 21.

Table 6:  ABS pipe type SDR 26 pipe sizes

Table 6: ABS pipe type SDR 26 pipe sizes

Table 7:  ABS SDR 14 pipe sizes

Table 7: ABS SDR 14 pipe sizes

Table 8:  ABS SDR 13.5 pipe sizes

Table 8: ABS SDR 13.5 pipe sizes

6.1.3 PRESSURE RATINGS

The pressure ratings for ABS piping are determined by the pipe diameter, pipe thickness and the pipe material. Although the pipe material is ABS, there are different classes within the overall ABS pipe material family. The typical ABS pipe classes include ABS2112, ABS1316, ABS1210 and ABS1208. ABS 2112 is the strongest, then ABS1316, followed by ABS1210 and finally ABS1208. The burst pressure for these materials and SDR combinations are shown below.

6.2 BRASS PIPING

Brass piping is in some cases an approved potable water piping and was popular in the past, but it has been replaced by materials that are easier to work with and usually provide longer service. There are two types of brass piping, (1) regular strength and (2) extra strength. The extra strength brass has thicker walls, which allows this pipe to have a higher allowable working pressure. The table below shows the dimensions of brass regular and extra strength piping. As you can see the inner diameter for extra strength piping is slightly less than the equivalent regular strength pipe size. This is due to the increased pipe thickness.

6.2.1 REGULAR STRENGTH

Table 9:  This table shows the dimensions of regular strength brass piping.

Table 9: This table shows the dimensions of regular strength brass piping.

6.2.2 EXTRA STRENGTH

Extra strength piping is typically not used for domestic water systems, since the pressures in domestic water systems typically never exceed 300 psi and the regular strength brass piping has sufficient strength to withstand 300 psi. The following two tables show the maximum allowable pressure for both regular and extra strength piping to further explain this point. As you can see, the maximum allowable pressure decreases with an increase in temperature.

Table 10:  This table shows the dimensions of extra strength brass piping.

Table 10: This table shows the dimensions of extra strength brass piping.

6.2.3 PRESSURE RATINGS

Table 11:  The maximum allowable pressure decreases as the temperature of the fluid increases.

Table 11: The maximum allowable pressure decreases as the temperature of the fluid increases.

Table 12: The extra strength brass piping has much higher maximum allowable pressures as shown in the below table.

Table 12: The extra strength brass piping has much higher maximum allowable pressures as shown in the below table.

6.3 CPVC PIPING

Chlorinates Polyvinyl Chloride (CPVC) is a plastic piping that is used to distribute cold water and sewer, waste, vent systems. Its main benefit is that it is low cost and easy to install. It is suitable for pressurized cold water (73 F) at pressures up to 300 PSI for smaller diameters and thicker pipes. However, at higher temperatures (180 F) the pressure rating drops down to 100 PSI and lowers for thinner pipes and larger diameters.

CPVC is slightly stronger than PVC and can handle higher temperatures. However, CPVC cannot handle temperatures as high as copper piping. In addition, CPVC has a larger coefficient of thermal expansion than metal piping. This means that you will need to account for pipe expansions and reductions for long runs of CPVC piping.

There are two standards that govern the dimensions of CPVC piping. These standards are ASTM F441 and ASTM F442. The first standard provides dimensions in the Schedule format and the second standard in the SDR format.

6.3.1 ASTM F441 STANDARD SPECIFICATION FOR CHLORINATED POLY VINYL CHLORIDE (CPVC) PLASTIC PIPE, SCHEDULES 40 AND 80

Table 13:  This table shows the dimensions for CPVC Schedule 40 piping.

Table 13: This table shows the dimensions for CPVC Schedule 40 piping.

Table 14:  This table shows the dimensions for CPVC Schedule 80 piping.

Table 14: This table shows the dimensions for CPVC Schedule 80 piping.

The pressure rating of the piping ranges from 1,130 PSI for Schedule 80, 1/4” pipe down to 230 PSI for Schedule 80 12” pipe and 210 PSI for Schedule 80 24” piping. The pressure rating also ranges from 780 PSI for Schedule 80 ¼” piping down to 220 PSI for 4” Schedule 40 piping and even further down to 120 PSI for 24” Schedule 40 piping. As you can see the pressure rating (maximum allowable water pressure) decreases as the size of the piping is increased and the pressure rating for schedule 80 piping is higher than the pressure rating for Schedule 40 piping.

The pressure rating is also de-rated as the water temperature increases. The previous pressures are based on 73 F water temperature. The pressure rating is de-rated down to 20% of the pressure rating when the water temperature is 200 F. The pressure ratings for piping are readily available from pipe manufacturer’s websites. But as a designer you should understand that CPVC is not suitable for high temperature water at pressures greater than 100 PSI and even lower for larger pipe sizes.

6.3.2 ASTM F442 STANDARD SPECIFICATION FOR CHLORINATED POLY VINYL CHLORIDE (CPVC) PLASTIC PIPE, SDR-PR

Similar to ABS piping, CPVC can also be rated in the SDR format. However, most manufacturers in the United States do not use this format. Thus these pipe sizes are not included in this guide nor are these pipe sizes included in the calculator.

6.4 COPPER PIPING AND TUBING

6.4.1 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PIPING AND TUBING

Piping is primarily used as a fluid carrier and is measured by inside diameter (ID). Thus when a ½” nominal copper pipe is selected, the inside diameter is roughly ½” while the outside diameter is 0.625 inches. Tubing is primarily used for structural purposes and is measured by outer diameter (OD). A ½” copper tube has an outer diameter of 0.545 while its ID is less than ½”. In domestic water piping systems, copper tubes are used and not copper pipes.

6.4.2 COPPER TYPES

There are six standard types of copper and are shown below for reference, you should select the type that most closely matches your project’s situation:

6.4.3 TYPE K COPPER TUBING

Type K copper tubing is commercially available in 20 ft lengths, drawn or annealed. It can be used for domestic water, fire protection, fuel, fuel oil, refrigerants, compressed air, LP gas and vacuum. It has the thickest walls of types L and M. Type L walls are thicker than Type M. These relations hold true for all pipe diameters. The outside diameters for each type, only the inside diameters and wall thicknesses vary for each type.

This type of pipe is most often used for below ground installations or when damage can occur to an above ground installation and a harder material is required.

Table 15:  Type K Copper Tubing Table

Table 15: Type K Copper Tubing Table

6.4.4 TYPE L COPPER TUBING

Type L copper tubing is commercially available in 20 ft lengths, drawn or annealed. It can be used for domestic water, fire protection, fuel, fuel oil, refrigerants, compressed air, LP gas and vacuum. It has the second thickest walls of Types K, L and M.

This type of pipe is most often used for above ground installations and when possible damage is not likely to the above ground installation.

Table 16:  Type L Copper Tubing Table

Table 16: Type L Copper Tubing Table

6.4.5 TYPE M COPPER TUBING

Type M copper tubing is commercially available in 20 ft lengths, drawn or annealed. It can be used for domestic water, fire protection, fuel, fuel oil, refrigerants, compressed air, LP gas and vacuum. It has the thinnest walls of Types K, L and M.

Table 17:  This table shows the pipe dimensions for Copper Type M tubing.

Table 17: This table shows the pipe dimensions for Copper Type M tubing.

6.4.6 TYPE DWV COPPER TUBING

Type DWV: This type has the thinnest walls and is used in drain, waste, vent applications where little to no pressure is involved. This type should not be used for pressurized water, so it is not included in the Domestic Water Piping Calculator.

6.4.7 TYPE MEDICAL GAS COPPER TUBING

Type Medical Gas: This type has an internal cleanliness requirement that meets the standards for piping conveying oxygen, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, medical compressed air or other gases used in medical facilities. This type should not be used for pressurized water, so it is not included in the Domestic Water Piping Calculator.

6.4.8 PRESSURE RATINGS OF COPPER TUBING

Pressure Ratings: The pressure rating of copper piping is very suitable for domestic water systems, since the pressure typically never exceeds 300 psi in a building. Water pressure can exceed 300 psi in high rise buildings.

Table 18:  Type K is the strongest copper pipe and thus has the highest allowable pressure. Although Type K piping is typically used for underground domestic water piping, you should also use this type when you have pressures exceeding 150 psi and larger pipe diameters.

Table 18: Type K is the strongest copper pipe and thus has the highest allowable pressure. Although Type K piping is typically used for underground domestic water piping, you should also use this type when you have pressures exceeding 150 psi and larger pipe diameters.

Table 19:  Type L tubing is the 2nd strongest copper type.  This pipe is typically used for indoor tubing and where pressures do not exceed 150 psi for larger tube diameters.

Table 19: Type L tubing is the 2nd strongest copper type. This pipe is typically used for indoor tubing and where pressures do not exceed 150 psi for larger tube diameters.

Table 20:  Type M is the weakest of the three copper pipe types and should be used very carefully.

Table 20: Type M is the weakest of the three copper pipe types and should be used very carefully.

6.5 PEX PLASTIC PIPE AND TUBING

Cross-Linked Polyethylene or PEX piping’s main advantage is a plastic, polyethylene pipe or tube. This material is flexible, which means that the installation cost is lower than other piping. Crosslinking is a chemical reaction that links one polyethylene polymer chain to another. There are three main classifications of PEX piping, PEX-a, PEX-b and PEX-c. The different classifications describe the method of crosslinking. Each method meets ASTM F 876 and ASTM F 877, which determines the dimensions, pressure ratings and temperature ratings. However, the cost of each type is slightly different and the flexibility of each type is different.

The other classification of PEX pipes is whether or not the pipe has a barrier. Typically domestic water systems use non-barrier type PEX piping. The barrier refers to a laminated surface that is placed on the outside of the pipe, which restricts oxygen from entering the fluid. This is used for hydronic systems and other non-potable water systems.

Lastly, PEX cannot be used outdoors because it cannot withstand UV rays, unless it has a UV coating. Designers do not like to risk a pipe’s life on a coating, so PEX will not be used outdoors, similar to other plastic piping.

ASTM F 876 is the standard that specifies the material properties and the dimensions for PEX tube. ASTM F 877 is the standard that specifies the performance requirements for a PEX system, tube and fittings together. PEX tube is typically manufactured according to SDR-9. The dimensions for PEX SDR-9 are shown in the below table. The manufacturing method does not matter for the dimensions, since PEX-a, b, c are all manufactured to the same dimensions.

Table 21:  This table shows the dimensions for PEX SDR-9 piping.

Table 21: This table shows the dimensions for PEX SDR-9 piping.

PEX piping is only used for smaller distribution pipes, up to 1” but some manufacturers do provide piping up to 2”.

6.5.1 PRESSURE RATINGS

PEX tubing typically has a maximum allowable water pressure of 160 PSI at 73 F, 100 psi at 180 F and 80 PSI at 200 F.

6.6 DUCTILE IRON WATER PIPE

Ductile iron is typically used by civil engineers as underground main piping. This pipe is not normally used by mechanical engineers for the building domestic water piping. This piping is suitable for underground, larger pipes because of its very long life. The piping is designed to last typically more than 100 years. The pipe is very strong and durable, so it can also withstand pressure loadings from being under roads and also any possible damage during handling and installation. Ductile iron is stronger than carbon steel piping and is also easier to work with, hence the name, ductile.

Ductile iron is an iron, so it is susceptible to corrosion. Linings are usually provided to slow down corrosion, but this will add cost to the piping. Ductile iron is relatively more expensive than its plastic counterparts.

Ductile Iron has different pressure classes. These classes identify the allowable water pressure. These classes include, 350 PSI, 300 PSI, 250 PSI, 200 PSI and 150 PSI. The outer diameters for each of the classes are the same, but the inner diameters are adjusted as the thickness changes for each pipe class. The higher pipe classes have increased thickness and smaller inner diameters.

The dimensions for these pipe classes are shown in the Domestic Water calculator.

6.7 GALVANIZED STEEL PIPING

Galvanized steel piping is in some cases an approved potable water piping but it is difficult to work with and subject to rust, which can cause leaks, decreased pressure and reduced flow.

Table 22:  This table shows the dimensions of galvanized steel, schedule 40 pipes.

Table 22: This table shows the dimensions of galvanized steel, schedule 40 pipes.

Table 23:  This table shows the dimensions of galvanized steel, schedule 80 pipes.

Table 23: This table shows the dimensions of galvanized steel, schedule 80 pipes.

6.7.1 PRESSURE RATINGS

The pressure rating for galvanized steel pipes vary based on the pipe size and schedule. The thicker schedules have higher pressure ratings and so do the smaller pipes. The maximum allowable pressure ranges from 2,000 psi for small pipes down to 200 psi for larger pipes and lower schedules. The pressure ratings are suitable for temperatures ranging from 0 F to 300 F.

6.8 POLYETHYLENE AND POLYPROPYLENE PLASTIC PIPING AND TUBING

Polyethylene and polypropylene are types of thermoplastic materials. These materials are not used as often for domestic water systems. These materials are typically used for fluids that are not chemically compatible with metal pipes. In addition, these materials can be used when corrosion is a concern, since plastic piping does not corrode. Plastic piping is also used because it is much cheaper and easier to work with than metal pipes.

However, these plastics are not as long lasting as their metal counterparts and do not do well when exposed to UV, unless the plastic has a UV coating. Some polyethylene pipe can be constructed with UV resistance built-in. In addition, plastic piping expands/contracts more drastically with changes in temperature and also has a much lower pressure rating than metal piping, especially at high temperatures.

Polyethylene (PE) and Polypropylene (PP) piping can range from sizes ½” to 65” but the calculator only includes the smaller pipe sizes since these are the most common for domestic water systems.

There are different types of PE and PP materials. These different types are usually given a four digit material code. The first two digits classify the cell, which determines the material’s density, tensile strength, slow growth crack resistance and much more. The second two digits determine the recommended standard hydrostatic design stress category. This is the basis used to determine the long-term strength of the pipe.

The applicable standards for polyethylene and polypropylene piping are (1) ASTM D 2239, (2) AWWA C901 and ASTM D 2737. ASTM D 2239 is titled the Standard Specification for Polyethylene (PE) Plastic Pipe (SIDR-PR) Based on Controlled inside Diameter. AWWA C901 is titled Polyethylene (PE) Pressure Pipe and Tubing, ½ inch through 3 inch for Water Service. AWWA stands for the American Water Works Association. ASTM D 2737 is titled the Standard Specification for Polyethylene (PE) Plastic Tubing. ASTM F 2389 is titled the Standard Specification for Pressure-rated Polypropylene (PP) Piping Systems.

6.8.1 PIPE DIMENSIONS

There are two ways that the pipe dimensions can be expressed for these plastic pipes, (1) SIDR and (2) SDR. SDR or standard diameter ratio was previously discussed with ABS and CPVC piping. SIDR stands for standard inner diameter ratio, which is the ratio of the inner diameter to the pipe thickness. SIDR is used for smaller pipes and for a special joining method that uses insert fittings. Thus the outside diameter can be varying, but the pipes can be joined as long as their inner diameters are the same.

Table 24:  This table shows the pipe dimensions for plastic SIDR7 piping.  A lower number indicates a greater pipe thickness.

Table 24: This table shows the pipe dimensions for plastic SIDR7 piping. A lower number indicates a greater pipe thickness.

Table 25:  This table shows the pipe dimensions for plastic SIDR9 piping.  The higher number indicates a smaller pipe thickness.  As you can see, the inner diameter is the same as SIDR7, but the thickness is smaller.

Table 25: This table shows the pipe dimensions for plastic SIDR9 piping. The higher number indicates a smaller pipe thickness. As you can see, the inner diameter is the same as SIDR7, but the thickness is smaller.

The second method that the plastic pipe dimensions can be shown is through the SDR or DR method. In this method, the outer diameters are the same and the inner diameters vary.

Table 26:  This table shows the plastic DR7 pipe dimensions.

Table 26: This table shows the plastic DR7 pipe dimensions.

Table 27:  This table shows the plastic DR9 pipe dimensions.

Table 27: This table shows the plastic DR9 pipe dimensions.

The calculator also has the following plastic pipe types, DR11, DR13.5, SIDR11.5, SIDR15, and SIDR19. The calculator only includes smaller pipe sizes for these plastics, because these are the sizes that are most common for domestic water systems.

6.8.2 PRESSURE RATINGS

The pressure ratings for plastic piping are much lower than metal piping. The pressure ratings range from 160 psi to 63 psi for the various pipe types. Also these pressure ratings are only for 73 F and the pressure ratings will drop as the temperature increases.

Table 28:  Maximum allowable pressure for plastic piping

Table 28: Maximum allowable pressure for plastic piping

There are different material types within the overall PE and PP piping categories and each sub-material type will have slightly different maximum allowable pressures. So be sure to use these pressure ratings only as a guide and to check with the pipe manufacturer for the exact pressure ratings, based on the pipe temperature, pipe size, pipe type and sub-material type.

6.9 POLYVINYL CHLORIDE (PVC) PIPING

PVC piping is typically used for drainage, waste and vent systems and irrigation systems. PVC piping can be exposed to UV rays unlike most other plastic piping. This piping is cheaper, lighter and easier to join, compared to metal piping.

The applicable standards are (1) ASTM D 1785 and (2) ASTM D 2241. ASTM D 1785 is titled Standard Specification for Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Plastic Pipe, Schedules 40, 80, and 120. ASTM D 2241 is titled Standard Specification for Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) Pressure-Rated Pipe (SDR Series). These standards govern the dimensions shown in the next section.

There are different types of PVC piping, PVC 1120, 1220, 2120, 2116, 2112 and 2110. These different types of PVC have slightly different material properties like density, strength, slow growth crack propagation, etc. Each sub-material type will have slightly different pressure ratings, but the dimensions will be the same for each sub-material type.

6.9.1 PIPE DIMENSIONS

There are two ways that the pipe dimensions can be expressed for these PVC pipes, (1) SDR and (2) Schedule.

The main SDR types are SDR 17, 21, 26 and 32.5. The lower SDR values have larger thicknesses and larger pressure ratings.

Table 29:  This table shows the dimensions of PVC SDR 17 piping.

Table 29: This table shows the dimensions of PVC SDR 17 piping.

Table 30:  This table shows the dimensions of PVC SDR 21 piping.  SDR 21 piping has a smaller inner diameter

Table 30: This table shows the dimensions of PVC SDR 21 piping. SDR 21 piping has a smaller inner diameter

The calculator also includes SDR 26 and SDR 32.5. The two main schedule types are Schedule 40 and Schedule 80. Schedule 10 and 120 piping is also available but these are less common and are not included in the calculator.

Table 31:  This table shows the dimensions of PVC Schedule 40 piping.

Table 31: This table shows the dimensions of PVC Schedule 40 piping.

Table 32:  This table shows the dimensions of PVC Schedule 80 piping.

Table 32: This table shows the dimensions of PVC Schedule 80 piping.

6.9.2 PRESSURE RATINGS

The various PVC sub-material types and SDR’s has pressure ratings from 50 to 315 psi. The lower SDR’s have higher pressure ratings and the higher SDR’s have lower pressure ratings. Schedule 40 piping has a pressure range from 810 psi down to 60 psi, depending on PVC sub-material type and pipe size. The smaller pipe sizes have greater pressure ratings. Schedule 80 piping has a pressure range from 1,230 psi down to 60 psi, depending on PVC sub-material type and pipe size.

As the temperature increases, the pressure rating also decreases. The pressure rating decreases by nearly 22% when the temperature is increased from 73 F to 140 F. There are different sub-material types within the overall PVC piping material category and each sub-material type will have slightly different maximum allowable pressures. So be sure to use these pressure ratings only as a guide and to check with the pipe manufacturer for the exact pressure ratings, based on the pipe temperature, pipe size, pipe type and sub-material type.

6.10 STAINLESS STEEL PIPING

Stainless steel piping is not often used for domestic water systems due to its cost. Stainless steel is suitable for conditions where corrosion resistance is required. Although the name stainless implies that the pipe will not corrode, but it only means that the pipe is more resilient than other metals. The key to its corrosion resiliency is the chromium. Stainless steel is a steel alloy that is comprised of at least 10.5% chromium. A steel alloy is the combination of iron and another element, in this case chromium.

There are two main types of stainless steel piping and they are 304 and 316 stainless steel. The difference between 304 and 316 is the chemical composition. 304-stainless steel contains iron and (10.5%) chromium. 316-stainless steel contains iron, (10.5%) chromium and (2-3%) molybdenum.

There is another distinction added for stainless steels. A stainless steel will have other elements besides iron and chromium. For example, this is the typical composition of 304-stainless steel.

Table 33:  The percent composition of typical 304 stainless steel.

Table 33: The percent composition of typical 304 stainless steel.

A stainless steel can be distinguished with an “L” at the end of its number designation. This indicates that the stainless steel has a carbon percentage that is less than .04%. This low level of carbon increases the metals corrosion resistance. 304 or 316 stainless steel is more likely to corrode at weld locations, but 304L or 316L will have more corrosion resistance at weld locations.

In summary there are four main types of stainless steel pipe materials, (1) 304, (2) 304L, (3) 316 and (4) 316L. These materials are excellent for locations where corrosion is a concern.

6.10.1 PIPE DIMENSIONS

The pipe dimensions are the same for 304 and 316-stainless steel. The pipe dimensions only change with the various pipe sizes and schedules. ASTM A312 is titled Standard Specification for Seamless, Welded, and Heavily Cold Worked Austenitic Stainless Steel Pipes. This specification shows the outer diameters and the thicknesses required to meet the various schedules, 10S, 40S and 80S. Schedule 10S is the thinnest pipe and 80S is the thickest pipe. The outer diameters are the same for each schedule, but the thicknesses vary. Constant outer diameters allow pipes of different schedules to be connected to each other.

Table 34:  This table shows the dimensions for schedule 10s stainless steel piping

Table 34: This table shows the dimensions for schedule 10s stainless steel piping

Table 35: This table shows the dimensions for schedule 40s stainless steel piping.

Table 35: This table shows the dimensions for schedule 40s stainless steel piping.

Table 36:  This table shows the dimensions for schedule 80s stainless steel piping.

Table 36: This table shows the dimensions for schedule 80s stainless steel piping.

6.10.2 PRESSURE RATINGS

Stainless steel pipes have pressure ratings that vary based on the type, pipe size and schedule. The thicker schedules have higher pressure ratings and so do the smaller pipes. Similar to the other previously discussed metal piping, stainless steel piping has a maximum allowable pressure ranging from 2,000 psi for small pipes down to 200 psi for larger pipes and lower schedules. The pressure ratings are suitable for temperatures ranging from 0 F to 300 F. The 304 pipes will be stronger, since it has more iron and the 316 will be weaker.

7.0 VALVES

A valve is a pipe fitting that regulates the flow of a fluid. There are many types of valves, like the globe valve, plug valve, angled valve, butterfly valve and 3-way valve. As an engineer you should understand each type of valve and when to use each type of valve. The different names of valves are given based on the shape of the valve. A good resource for valves is at any valve manufacturer’s websites, like Cla-Val, Apollo Valves and Powell Valves. However another good source is at the control valve webpage at Emerson Process’s website.

7.1 TYPES OF VALVES

Globe Valve: A glove valve consists of a plug and a seat. The plug is raised and lowered to increase and decrease flow through the valve. Since the fluid has to make two 90 degree turns the pressure drop is much higher than other valves and the wear on the valve is greater.

This valve is characterized by infrequent operation, good flow control, high pressure drop and high pressure rating.

Figure 17: A section view of a globe valve.  As the valve is closed, the plug is lowered into the seat, which blocks the fluid flow from moving up and to the right of the valve.

Figure 17: A section view of a globe valve. As the valve is closed, the plug is lowered into the seat, which blocks the fluid flow from moving up and to the right of the valve.

Ball Valve: A ball valve is called a ball valve due to the ball shape in the center of the valve. This ball has an opening on sides 180 degrees opposite of each other. The rest of the valve is solid. When the valve is aligned such that the openings are in line with the fluid flow, then the valve is 100% open. When the valve is aligned such that the openings are perpendicular to the fluid flow, then it is 100% closed.

This valve is characterized by frequent operation, bad flow control, low pressure drop and higher pressure rating. This valve can be used for on/off control but can also be used to regulate flow. The ball valve is the most common types of valve used in domestic water system. They are used as shut off valves to isolate parts of a building, in case maintenance is required in one area, the whole system does not need to be drained.

Figure 18: A section view of a ball valve.  As the valve is closed, the plug is lowered into the seat, which blocks the fluid flow from moving up and to the right of the valve.

Figure 18: A section view of a ball valve. As the valve is closed, the plug is lowered into the seat, which blocks the fluid flow from moving up and to the right of the valve.

Butterfly Valve: A butterfly valve has a disc in the center of the valve. The disc is connected to a rod, which can be spun to open and close the valve. Rotating the rod turns the plate parallel or perpendicular to flow and any angle in between. Because the plate is always located in the flow, there is an increased pressure drop.

This valve is characterized by infrequent operation, bad flow control, low pressure drop and a low pressure rating.

Figure 19: A section view of a butterfly valve.  The valve is currently shown as a ¼ open.  The fluid passes around the disc.  As the valve is closed, the disc is perpendicular to the path of the fluid flow, creating a wall.  When the valve is 100% open, the disc is parallel to the fluid flow.

Figure 19: A section view of a butterfly valve. The valve is currently shown as a ¼ open. The fluid passes around the disc. As the valve is closed, the disc is perpendicular to the path of the fluid flow, creating a wall. When the valve is 100% open, the disc is parallel to the fluid flow.

Check Valve: This valve allows fluid to only flow in one direction. There are many different types of check valves. The most common are swing and lift check valves.

Gate Valve: A gate valve is used for on/off control and operates by lifting a gate out of the path of the fluid.

Figure 20: A section view of a gate valve.  As the valve is closed, the gate is lowered into the seat, which blocks the fluid flow from moving from through the valve.

Figure 20: A section view of a gate valve. As the valve is closed, the gate is lowered into the seat, which blocks the fluid flow from moving from through the valve.

This valve is characterized by infrequent operation, bad flow control, low pressure drop and lower pressure rating.

Needle Valve: A needle valve has a similar build to a globe valve but instead of a disc there is a needle-shaped plunger that fits into the seat. It is primarily used for low flow.

Figure 21:  A needle valve has the same construction as a globe valve, except the plug is shaped as a needle as opposed to a disc.  This allows for greater flow control, but also increased pressure losses.

Figure 21: A needle valve has the same construction as a globe valve, except the plug is shaped as a needle as opposed to a disc. This allows for greater flow control, but also increased pressure losses.

This valve is characterized by infrequent operation, excellent flow control, high pressure drop and higher pressure rating.

7.2 VALVE FLOW CHARACTERISTICS

Flow characteristics describe the relationship of the flow rate and the % open/close status of the valve. For example, if a valve is 50% open, then the flow is at 50 GPM or if a valve is 75% open, then the flow is 80 GPM. This is an example of the term flow characteristics and a collection of these points’ results in a flow characteristics graph.

The graph shown on the following page is an example of a flow characteristics graph of various control valves. Each valve produced by a manufacturer will have a corresponding graph. This graph will allow you to properly select the type of valve that you need for your application. For exam purposes, you should be able to understand this graph and determine how the flow will be controlled by the control valve under various operating points.

Figure 22: The flow characteristics graph gives the operating conditions of a control valve at a constant pressure.

Figure 22: The flow characteristics graph gives the operating conditions of a control valve at a constant pressure.

As you can see from the above graph, there are a variety of different control valves, each with its own flow characteristics. The simplest control valve is the valve with linear characteristics, this means that if the valve is 50% open, then the flow rate is 50% and if the valve is 75% open, then the flow rate is 75%. The quick opening valves let through the majority of the flow when the valve is only slightly opened. The others need a larger percent opening to increase the flow.

If you needed tight control in a certain area near the 90% to 100% operating region, then you could use quick acting valve. If you needed tighter control in the 25 to 50% region, then the hyperbolic globe valve could be used. As an engineer you should be able to read these graphs and select a control valve that best suits your need.

7.3 VALVE SIZING METHOD

The sizing of a liquid valve is dependent on the following equation. This equation shows that for flow through an orifice like a control valve, that the square of the fluid velocity is directly proportional to the pressure drop across the orifice.

Valve sizing method

The valve is coefficient is specific to each valve and is found through controlled experiments. This value corresponds to the flow rate through the valve in one minute, when a pressure drop of 1 PSI is maintained across the valve.

8.0 Miscellaneous Design Issues

8.1 HYDRAULIC SHOCK OR WATER HAMMER

Hydraulic shock is the term used to describe the pounding noise and vibrations in a piping system when a volume of liquid flowing is abruptly stopped. A pressure wave is started at the point of fluid stoppage and is reflected back and forth from this point to a point downstream. This wave is slowly dissipated after a period of time. Devices in a domestic water system that can trigger water hammer include, solenoid valves, quarter turn valves (assumed quick closure), and flush valves. In many cases a loud sound is present with water hammer, as if someone was hitting the pipe with a hammer, hence water hammer. The sound may be upsetting to a client, but the cause of the sound is even more of a worry.

8.2 STERILIZATION OF DOMESTIC WATER PIPING

For all new and renovation work, the water system should be cleaned and disinfected. Disinfection is usually conducted with chlorine. It is injected into the system through a service cock, near the entrance into the building. Once the disinfectant is injected into the system at the correct concentration, it is then held in the system for a set period of time. After the retention, the concentrations are checked and if they are satisfactory, the system is flushed. Finally samples are taken at the furthest fixture and tested. An acceptable test shall show the absence of coliform organisms and should be submitted to the owner prior to the contractor permitting the use of any portion of the domestic water system.

8.3 WATER LEAK TESTING

This test is conducted prior to the sterilization of the system. It consists of capping all system openings and filling the system with water, and pumping a static head into the system at around 100 psi for at least 2 hours.

5 Different Types of Water Heaters

Picture this: it’s the dead of winter and you’ve just finished shoveling your driveway after a full hour of snow-slinging. Nothing sounds better than a warm shower to bring life back into your frozen body, but upon cranking the hot water, only cold water comes out. Your water heater has bit the dust and the timing couldn’t be worse.

In a perfect world, water heaters would be invincible—no test of time or durability could phase them—but in reality, the average water heater only lasts 8-12 years. When it’s time to replace your water heater, you may quickly realize that not only are there several types of water heaters out there, but each comes with different benefits and drawbacks. With so many modern options on the market, it’s always better to be equipped with the knowledge of your many options rather than leaving it up to random-choosing or a potentially biased professional.

There are five main types of water heaters; conventional, tankless, heat pump, solar, and condensing. Each comes with its own technological advancements and energy efficiencies, so it’s well worth your time to understand the differences between each to make an informed decision.

Using this guide, we’ll walk you through all five water heater types and dive into the pros, the cons, and the many reasons why one water heater may be better for your home than another.

Types of Water Heaters

  1. Conventional Water Heater
  2. Tankless Water Heater
  3. Heat Pump Water Heater
  4. Solar Water Heater
  5. Condensing Water Heater

Types of Water Heaters

1. Conventional Water Heater

Conventional water heaters are among the most popular water heater options. They feature a sizable insulated tank where water is stored and warmed.

Pros:

  • Lower initial cost: Unless you opt for an ultra-modern model, you’ll likely spend far less on the initial up-front costs of a conventional water heater than you would for any of the four alternatives.
  • Efficient across all climates: No matter where in the world you live, you can rest assured knowing that a conventional water heater will function to perfection. Solar, tankless, and heat pump water heaters all require specific conditions for optimal performance. A conventional water heater will deliver steady and seamless performance provided proper upkeep is maintained.
  • Lower installation costs: In addition to attractive initial costs, conventional water heaters are also inexpensive to have installed. This, of course, depends on where in your home you plan on installing, and where you may need plumbing, gas, and electrical configurations. Typically, installation costs tend to be lower than the alternative installation types.

Cons:

  • Increased energy waste: Because conventional water heaters house a constant well of warm water, they are constantly using energy to maintain the temperature. On the contrary, tankless models only heat water as it’s needed.
  • Space hog: There’s no getting around the size of a conventional water heater. Because they are designed to accommodate a reservoir of warm water, they tend to run on the larger spectrum of size.
  • Vulnerability to water damage: One of the most notable fatal flaws to conventional water heaters is their potential for water damage. In the event that you forgo regular routine maintenance checks, you could end up dealing with rust and corrosion that could comprise the functionality and health of your water heater. This could even lead to extensive, and dramatically expensive, water damage to your home.

2. Tankless Water Heater

Tankless water heaters are able to produce instantaneous hot water through super-heated coils. These coils fill up with water the instant you demand it, offering near-limitless hot water for your home. 

  • Instant hot water: Rather than waiting for cool water to turn into warm water, and warm water to turn into hot water, tankless water heaters provide instant hot water the moment you demand it. Because tankless water heaters only heat water when you need it, they require less overall energy, especially compared to a conventional heater that maintains a constant warm well.
  • Space-saving: One of the most notable benefits of a tankless water heater is its compact size. Without the need for a constant reservoir of water, tankless models don’t require any bulky storage space. This makes them easy to mount on walls or store in compact nooks and crannies.
  • Lower month-to-month costs: Suiting up your home with a tankless water heater effectively lower your month-to-month costs, saving you hundreds of dollars on an annual scale, too. The decreased need for energy flow allows you to enjoy the fruits of your power-saving choice.

Cons:

  • Higher initial cost: Even the most affordable tankless heater options begin at $1, 000 whereas the average conventional water heater will run around $500. While there are many benefits to making the switch, those on a budget will have to wait some time before making up the cost differential.
  • Limited supply of hot water: For smaller families, a tankless water heater is perfect—for a larger family, the supply of hot water may run out should too many demands being made at a given moment. For example, if someone is taking a shower while the dishwasher is running, the hot water demand will likely go cold.
  • No outstanding benefit compared to similar inexpensive options: Tankless water heaters are considerably more expensive than a number of other water heater options but don’t necessarily come with wildly impressive perks that are hard to find with cheaper alternatives. It could take anywhere between 6 and 12 years to make up the initial and installation costs before the month-to-month savings kick in.

 

3. Heat Pump Water Heater

Heat pump water heaters, also known as hybrid water heaters, are designed to work without directly generating heat. By using the heat in the ground and surrounding air, the only electricity used is dedicated to moving heat from point A to point B.

Pros:

  • Money-saving: According to Consumer Reports, heat pump water heaters use about 60% less energy than conventional heaters. Though heat pump heaters tend to run a higher average cost than tankless models, you’ll see the fruits of energy-saving payback at a faster rate. Conserve water at home without any habit changes with a heat pump system.
  • Long-term efficiency: Heat pump water heaters are the most efficient alternatives to fuel, oil, and electric water heating systems. For those in the market for a water heater that is both energy-efficient and cost-efficient, heat pump water heaters show great promise.
  • Less Maintenance: When it comes to regular maintenance, heat pump systems are incredibly unfussy. Requiring check-ins only once a year, keeping your hybrid system in check can be easily self-assessed and completed—energy-efficient HVAC professionals or pricy labor bills required. It is recommended that a professional checks on your system every 3 to 5 years.

Cons:

  • Mediocre life span: Heat pump water heaters typically come with life spans averaging out to 10 years. Next to solar and tankless heaters that average out at 20 years, and conventional systems that average between 10-15 years, heat pump water heaters shy in comparison.
  • Space requirements: Heat pump water heaters require at least 1, 000 cubic feet of space to operate safely and at optimal efficiency. It’s also worth noting that hybrid water heaters can only be installed in climates that stay between the temperatures of 40 degrees and 90 degrees— so those living in the frigid north or the sizzling south may be out of luck.
  • Carbon neutral: Though heat pump water heaters do not directly generate electricity, they are considerably dependent on it for seamless functionality. Those looking for a water heater option that reduces their carbon footprint will likely frown upon this carbon-neutral system.

4. Solar Water Heater

Solar water heaters depend on the power of the sun. They work by using roof-mounted panels that transfer energy through a closed-loop system that connects to the water tank which then warms the water.

  • Uses renewable energy: Solar water heaters are the most energy-efficient water heater options available today. Because solar power is completely dependent on sunshine, it can be harnessed wherever the sun’s rays reach on any given day.
  • Lower utility bills: In addition to being incredibly eco-friendly, solar panels are also incredibly cost-friendly. While the initial installation cost could put a dent in your wallet, you could significantly reduce both your water and electricity bills when you make the solar switch.
  • Tax credit eligibility: The federal government has made a huge push toward incentivizing solar panel projects. There are a number of federal-level tax credits that can assist with the installation costs incurred.
  • Only great for climates with plenty of sunshine: If you live in a shady area or a climate that gets more rainy days than sunny ones, upgrading to a solar water heater may not prove as fruitful as it would for residents living in Southern California or coastal Florida. Though solar power can be collected on gray days, consecutive low-sun days can have a noticeable impact on your system’s performance.
  • Cost of installment: The cost of installing solar panels is one of the most notable downsides to solar water heating. Fortunately, there are a number of financing programs that make the payment process easier if you’ve set your sights on switching to solar power.
  • Rooftop space requirements: The more electricity you demand from your solar panels, the more solar panels you’ll actually need. The more solar panels, the more roof space you’ll need to dedicate. If your home is small in size, your roof may not be able to accommodate the level of panel power you desire.

 

solar water heater

5. Condensing Water Heater

While condensing water heaters are similar to conventional heating systems, they work by capturing hot exhaust gases that would normally exit the home through a flue, and redirecting them to a heat exchanger located inside of the tank.

  • Better for the environment: According to ENERGY STAR, condensing water heaters allow you to cut energy costs by 30% provided you suit your home up with an ENERGY STAR qualified heating system. This alone allows you to minimize your carbon footprint by reducing your greenhouse gas emissions output.
  • Cheaper to operate: Designed with efficiency in mind, condensing water heaters can significantly reduce your natural gas bill.
  • Efficiency: Condensing water heaters are capable of producing hot water as quickly and instantly as tankless water heaters. The tank heats up the water as quickly as it’s filled up, so you can enjoy a near-constant flow of hot water when needed.

Cons:

  • Expensive price tag: Newer condensing water heater models can cost between 2 to 3 times more than a conventional water heater— and that’s initial cost alone. While installation costs for condensing systems typically run lower than conventional heater installation costs, the initial cost may not make up the difference.
  • Fussy reconfiguration: Switching to a condensing water heater isn’t as simple as a quick installation— it’s an involved process that requires a fair bit of reconfiguration. From gas lines to venting alignments, be sure to consider the hidden costs before making your final decision.
  • Size: Condensing water heaters are typically capable of accommodating water capacities of 55 gallons or more, meaning they’re designed for heavy-duty water usage. This heavy-duty capability is directly reflected in the bulky size of the heater itself. You’ll need to carve out a dedicated space for this mega-machine.

Summary

There is plenty of research and qualitative weighing to do before deciding on the perfect type of water heater for your household. With a well-rounded understanding of everything available to you on the modern market, you can rest assured knowing you’re making the best and most informed desicion.

Advantages Of Installing A Solar Water Heater

The basic need for hot water is very expensive as it heaps a huge amount of energy. It is believed that more than 18% of domestic energy is used to heat water.  In most homes and businesses this energy is generated from fossil fuels – gas and oil.  Most modern domestic boilers run on gas and heat water on demand. On top of that, there are many people who prefer using electricity to heat the water which is the most expensive method out of all. 

We also can’t deny the fact that we need hot water on a daily basis, and in some manufacturing businesses, hot water is the lifeblood. We can try and save energy by implementing some lifestyle changes to use less hot water (for example, running fewer full baths, using thermostats on our heating system more efficiently), but in the 21st Century, we all want hot water on tap.

The advent of ‘green energy has helped people to adopt efficient and sustainable methods to carry out daily activities. Here, the ‘green’ energy is generated from the natural and ultimate source of natural energy that is the sun, using solar panels. Solar energy comes from natural sources and leaves no carbon emissions like other fuels. In addition, the process does not produce any waste, does not produce any noise pollution, and neither leaves any hazardous effects on the environment.
We know the major advantage of the solar panel is power saving. We are using the natural source of energy that is free, renewable, and unlimited- You will definitely notice the decreasing rates of the electricity bills. Electricity bills are usually high because of electrical water heaters and using sustainable and affordable methods of heating solutions will definitely cause a decline in electricity bills. So, it makes perfect sense to look for sustainable and affordable water heating solutions.

One way to cut down the massive electricity bills due to water heating is to invest in solar water heaters. Solar water heaters will not only reduce the electricity bills but will also offer numerous other advantages in a cost-effective manner.

Here are the few advantages of solar water heater:

Zero-cost

Ideally, the solar panel uses energy from the sun. This means we do not have to pay a single penny to the power grid for using electricity. Being a renewable source of energy, it is completely free and available each day. All we need to do is figure is how to fine-tune our panel to optimize the performance in cloudy weather. You can contact the best solar water heater suppliers to know more about how solar water heaters can be effective in all seasons.

Efficient

One of the primary reasons solar panels have great outweigh any other form of energy is that when it comes to heating water is the efficiency, they bring to us. Efficiency here means the solar panels convert almost up to 80% radiation into heat energy without making use of any external fuels.

Cheap installation

You will spend a lot less to install a solar panel in comparison to a PV panel. A good way to earn rewards is by transferring the unused unit back to the electricity grid. They are a one-time investment for long-term benefits.

Save space

If there is a thought of space for mounting a solar PV panel, we do not need to worry about it as well. If the room is not enough, we can go for a thermal panel.

Save for environment

The world is accepting ‘green’ and there is no greener energy than solar panels. They have no dependency on fuels, have zero-emission, and lower carbon footprints.

Low maintenance

Solar water heaters do not require high maintenance. It only demands simple cleaning. As it does not contain any moving parts, there will be no tear and break which would need regular repairing attention. The manufacturer of solar water heater guarantees that it will work for almost 20-25 years but tend to work longer.

Wrapping up!

Solar water heater requires an initial investment but is always a better alternative for heating water. The only thing we need to remember is the correct number of solar panels in order to meet the appropriate requirements of heating at your home.

It is advisable to connect to professionals for solar water heating mounting. If you are looking for an expert solar water heater in Ahmedabad, you should take a step towards Citizen Solar. They are a recognized solar water heater supplier, known for offering top-notch quality and service.

Water water everywhere (nor any drop to drink)

Built in a lake basin, Mexico City experiences destructive flooding but also struggles with access to clean water. ASU researchers are studying the complex choreography of the natural environment, physical infrastructure, and human decision-making that contribute to both.

Water water everywhere (nor any drop to drink)

A mural painted by Diego Rivera shows the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan. Photo by Wolfgang Sauber under a CC BY-SA 3.0 license.

By Diane Boudreau

June 2, 2016

Nearly 1,000 years ago, the Aztec people left their ancestral home of Aztlan under orders from Huitzilopochtli, the god of sun and war. He prophesied that the people would find a new home when they saw an eagle perched on a prickly pear cactus, devouring a snake—or so the legend goes.

The people wandered for hundreds of years through what is now Mexico. They settled in several places, but never for very long—their propensity for human sacrifice did not endear them to their neighbors. Finally, in 1325 AD, the Aztecs found their unlikely sign. Unfortunately, the cactus on which the eagle perched grew out of a small island in the middle of Lake Texcoco. Undaunted, the Aztecs built the city of Tenochtitlan, and eventually a flourishing empire, on the swampy site.

“They built this amazing civilization. But of course living in a lake bed imposed a lot of challenges. It was also a huge benefit in that the lake itself provided food for the communities, and it was also a defense,” says Hallie Eakin, a human geographer at Arizona State University.

Eakin studies Mexico City, which was built on the ruins of Tenochtitlan. Today, the city’s metropolitan area is home to 21 million people. It is one of a growing number of megacities—cities with more than 10 million residents—in the world today.

The urbanization of Mexico City has wrought massive changes on the ecosystem it inhabits. For example, Lake Texcoco is almost completely gone. Conversely, the ecosystem has a profound impact on the city and the people who live in it. For instance, the city’s location in a lake basin leads to extreme flooding.

Old picture of Aztecs on a boat
The Aztecs piled up rich soil from the bottom of Lake Texcoco to create little agricultural islands called chinampas. A few farmers still use this practice today. Photo by Karl Weule, 1912.

Eakin leads an interdisciplinary research project called MEGADAPT, which explores the challenges of flooding, chronic water scarcity and associated health problems in Mexico City. The project is a collaboration between ASU and the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), funded by the National Science Foundation.

Unlike some cities that have just begun experiencing major flooding due to climate change, like New York, the people of Mexico City have been adapting to their environment for centuries.

“The city itself appears to be very capable of managing extreme events, in the sense that they don’t cause major collapse,” says Eakin, an associate professor in ASU’s School of Sustainability. “However, that doesn’t mean there aren’t huge costs to that stability. The question for us is whether those forms of adaptation are preventing the system from getting into a more sustainable state, in terms of who bears the risk and then the cost.”

The relationships between a city, the natural environment and human decision-making are extraordinarily complex—particularly at the scale of a megacity. Sometimes solving one problem can inadvertently create others.

For example, even though Mexico City counts more rainy days than London, clean drinking water is often scarce. About 70 percent of residents have no running water for more than half of every day.

One way to get potable water is to pump it from underground. However, this can cause the land to sink down into the emptied aquifer, making the area even more vulnerable to floods.

To understand these complex interactions, the researchers are integrating vast amounts of data about the natural environment, urban infrastructure and human behavior.

“Our aim is to pull this all together and create a platform for decision-making in which we can understand what is really driving the dynamics of risk in this city. How much of it is coming from problems of topography, problems of increased rainfall, and how much is actually due to human decisions?” asks Eakin. Ultimately, the model they produce could be adapted for other megacities around the world.

Building a storm

The team has already made one important discovery. As Mexico City grows, rainfall is increasing. The finding was published in the Journal of Geophysical Research on April 4.

For a city located in a lake basin, more rain can cause problems.

“The city today faces continual problems with chronic flooding, from intersections becoming impassable in the rainy season because of lack of drains, to occasionally severe floods of a meter or so of water over particular neighborhoods. It’s not just the flooding, it’s that this is a combined rainwater and sewage system, as many old cities are. And that water is highly contaminated,” says Eakin.

Matei Georgescu experienced this firsthand when he met with MEGADAPT collaborators in Mexico City.

“I was stuck for about two-and-a-half hours in a bus because of the flooding. When all the main arteries get flooded all the public transportation comes to a complete stop,” he says. “We were finishing up a meeting at UNAM and were supposed to go back to the hotel to meet for dinner. We never made it to dinner. But it was an experience to fully understand what the flooding problems are.”

Georgescu is an assistant professor in the School of Geographical Sciences and Urban Planning. He leads the climate modeling portion of the MEGADAPT project.

Photo of Matei Georgescu talking to a camera
Matei Georgescu is a climate scientist and a self-described “weather weenie” who has been fascinated with weather since childhood. “Some of the first memories I have are related to weather, like snowdrifts in Romania. It was fascinating to me that you could not just major in this but then make a profession out of it!” he says

“Previous research has shown through observation that rainfall has been increasing over the Mexico City metropolitan area over the last century or so,” he says. “People had assumed that this increase in rainfall was somehow associated with urbanization, or what’s known as the urban heat island. But the link was never made. Correlation doesn’t mean causation.”

His team used satellite data to create a highly detailed map of Mexico City, identifying different land uses such as residential or commercial. They entered that data into the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) model and compared their results to the weather that was actually observed in the city.

Valeria Benson-Lira, the lead author on the study, traveled to Mexico City and worked with the Servicio Meteorologico Nacional (the Mexican weather service) to gather the observed weather data. The work was part of her master’s thesis research.

“Because I’m from Mexico, I wanted to do something that will have an impact on my country,” says Benson-Lira, who received her master’s degree in geography in May 2015.

Because of the mass quantity of the information, she had to retrieve it in person. She sifted through data from 16 weather stations that took readings every 10 minutes between 1999 and 2012. That adds up to nearly 11 million data points.

Photo of Valeria Benson Lira in front of a garden
Valeria Benson-Lira started her career as an industrial engineer but didn’t feel engaged in her work, so she decided to pursue her master’s degree at ASU. “I am very passionate about environmental issues, so I wanted to do climate research and I wanted to learn about climate modeling,” she says.

The team compared a subset of this data with the WRF model’s predictions and found that they matched closely. This told them that their adapted model works well.

Next they entered data about the pre-urban land cover of the area, developed at the University of Wisconsin, into the model. They found that Mexico City today experiences more rainfall than in the past, due to the growth of the city.

Geographic map of Lake Texcoco

How does building a city attract more rain? Georgescu says two elements are required for precipitation to occur: moisture in the atmosphere and rising air, which forms condensation as it cools.

Precipitation systems tend to move over Mexico City in the late afternoon and evening, providing the first element—moisture. But they need rising air to unleash a rainstorm.

Urban structures like roads and buildings absorb more heat from the sun during the day than natural environments, creating an “urban heat island” effect. They release that heat in the evening hours. This provides the energy to lift the air, right at the time that precipitation systems move over the city.

“We’re not creating new precipitation systems, we’re just raining more out of what already existed. So essentially rainfall becomes more efficient,” says Georgescu.

The human element

MEGADAPT will take models like Georgescu’s adapted WRF model, integrate them and allow them to “talk” to each other. These include a hydrological watershed model and models of how the city distributes waste and drinking water through its infrastructure.

It’s not enough, however, to understand physical processes. The model also needs to account for human decisions and actions. Eakin interviews many people—from government officials to farmers to urban residents—about what issues they perceive, how they prioritize them and how they respond to them.

Eakins with a community group
Hallie Eakin (in red) works with a community group in Mexico City. Eakin’s previous research focused mostly on household decisions in rural communities. “I’m now increasingly wanting to know how those household decisions fit into a bigger picture. Is it good for the system? Is it sustainable? That got me into this idea that I need to work with modelers,” she says.

For example, Mexican disaster-management officials described major flooding that inundated homes in low-income neighborhoods with sewage-tainted rainwater.

“They basically lose all of their property. They have to evacuate populations. Things that are contaminated all have to be thrown out. Small business owners who are losing all their stock may not have insurance that covers these losses,” she says.

When she visits households, Eakin often finds that people have elevated important appliances like stoves onto bricks. Some will even elevate their thresholds, raising the front door off the ground to prevent water from getting in.

She says these adaptations are helpful, “but on the other hand, they are kind of letting the populations that are the most vulnerable dedicate scarce resources to this type of risk management, which really doesn’t get at the heart of the problem. We’re trying to understand whether there are interventions that can be made in a much more systemic way that would avoid these populations having to bear the burden.”

Photo of a bloodline on a building and a stove
Residents in Mexico City often elevate their front doors and valuable appliances to prevent flood damage. Photo by Hallie Eakin.

Every adaptation that people make, whether on an individual level like elevating appliances or on a government level like building infrastructure, is a decision based on certain perceptions, priorities and responsibilities.

For example, a community suffering from water scarcity might petition the government for rainwater capture systems. They see plenty of water washing away during the rainy season, and they get frustrated and angry with the government for not implementing what seems to be an obvious solution.

“And the government may say, ‘It’s all very well to think about rainwater capture but it’s going to be a drop in the bucket when we think about the volume we need to satisfy our population. Therefore it’s not an investment priority for us,’” explains Eakin. “People get frustrated that the solution they think is viable is not being adopted, and the government thinks people just don’t understand the complexity of the problem.”

The MEGADAPT model will allow users to compare the costs and benefits of different solutions, reveal unintended consequences, and offer insights that could lead to potential new solutions, as well. For instance, knowing that urban heat increases rainfall, city officials might consider exploring green infrastructure to reduce temperatures.

The researchers will leverage UNAM’s Decision Theater facility—modeled after the original Decision Theater at ASU—to help stakeholders simulate and visualize the modeling data. The team also plans to make a user-friendly version accessible to the public.

“I would be naïve to say we’ll solve it, but we’re trying to get some better instruments to help people think about these very complex interactions,” Eakin says. “It’s enormously complex.”

The team’s approach in Mexico City could also be applied to other cities.

“The developing world is urbanizing. Their data is not always in the best condition or widely available. There may be plans and protocols for certain things but they may not always be followed to the letter,” says Eakin. “This is the reality of most urban environments in the world. If we can get a hold of how to grapple with these complexities for more effective decision-making in Mexico City, perhaps we can extend this to Dakkar and New Delhi and Guatemala City.”

Mexican flag
The Mexican flag features an image of an eagle, perched on a prickly pear cactus, with a snake in its mouth. It represents the Aztec legend about the founding of Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City.

Ways to Build Strong Contractor/Client Relationships

Build a strong relationship with your client and not only will they be happy to work with you again in the future, but they’ll also even rave about you to others when your project is complete. There are plenty of benefits to building great relationships with clients; communicating well, providing accurate information, and ensuring your presence is a positive one will all pay off in the long run.

5 Strategies for Improving Construction Client Relationships - Build Magazine

Communicate Regularly

Your communication during the project should be as positive and as frequent as it was when you were courting the customer for their business. Choose your preferred method of contact and make sure your client has an easy way to get in touch. Regular communication throughout the project can help build trust and ensure your customer feels cared for and that their home is in good hands.

Provide Details

You know every step required for the job at hand, and understand what a residential construction zone looks and sounds like, but your customer may not. A simple welcome packet or email with a “thank you,” a quick outline of what to expect from the project, and a note from you to get in touch any time they have a question, provides insight and makes your customer feel like they are in the loop. Some homeowners do not like relinquishing control of parts of their home, so by providing this information up front, you ease any anxiety they are having about the unknown.

Keep Things Positive

How to Build a Good Client-Contractor Relationship | Home Design Lover

You’re always on stage when you’re in the client’s home – and your subs and workers are too. Make sure your team looks presentable, refrains from using NSFW (not safe for work) language, and maintains a positive, professional attitude. Even if you’re stressed out or angry that something was done incorrectly, maintaining a professional and positive atmosphere will prevent those feelings from spilling over to the client and possibly souring them on the job at hand.

Listen and Teach

Listening to the homeowner can help you truly understand their needs. When they feel heard, they’re more likely to respond positively to you. Not all your clients will be expert contractors themselves; that’s why they hired you. Taking the time to explain “why” a load-bearing wall needs to be in a specific place can help position you as an expert and allow you to develop a great relationship with your client, too.

Use Technology to Your Advantage

5 Methods to Help You Build – and Maintain – Strong General Contractor/Client Relationships - ConstructionGuide.com

Use technology to ensure you are providing accurate estimates and delivering what your client expects. Eyeballing or using a manual tape measure can give you a ballpark idea, but using a platform like HOVER ensures your estimates and proposals are accurate every time. Backtracking, changing your approach, or even coming in over budget can destroy the rapport you’ve worked so hard to build up. Technology like HOVER can prevent you from having to adjust on the go.

Give your clients the experience they deserve every time. By communicating well and often, listening to their concerns, and using technology to provide the best possible service, you can be sure you’re building relationships that last. Make the most of your time with a client; use HOVER to provide key details, visualize every change to the look of their home and deliver an accurate estimate for every project.

The importance of having a plumber install and maintain your home well pump and water tank

Image of a well installed near southern maine

Well Pump Service

The water system in your home is one of the most important systems that you have to take care of. It’s a system that brings water into your home, provides you with a means to flush and clean your toilet, and removes the dirty water from the house. There would be no way to live in a house without the plumbing system. Your home’s well pump and water tank are essential for your family’s health and quality of life. When your household water system is in working condition, you can enjoy various benefits that range from convenience to long-term savings on your monthly water bill. If you have an older well pump or tank, there is a chance that it may not be as efficient as newer models. In addition, the water pressure will fluctuate as more people turn on their faucets or showers. This can lead to a more expensive water bill and an increased risk of leaks. That’s why it’s good to have a plumber install and maintain your home’s well pump and water tank so that you can benefit from the many advantages these systems offer.

The plumber is an expert who knows how everything works in the plumbing system. They are trained for this job, and they know it inside-out. They can help one with any problems that may arise with the plumbing system, whether they are big or small. They provide many different services like installing new water lines, well pump installation, fixing leaks, replacing faucets, repairing toilets, and unclogging drains. A professional plumber has the knowledge and experience needed to ensure that it does what it is supposed to do. They’re going to help you take care of the plumbing problems in your house, and they’ll do so at a lower cost than what you would pay if they weren’t there. Working with a plumber is an important decision that should not be taken lightly. Here are some of the reasons why you need an experienced plumber:

A plumbing problem can lead to more significant issues.

A plumbing problem in one area can cascade into other house areas. Common plumbing problems include pressure issues, poor under-sink drains, leaks, sewer problems, and expensive repairs. This means that hiring a plumber is important for ensuring that everything runs smoothly and efficiently. The quality of service you receive from a plumber is crucial for your peace of mind. Many potential causes for a plumbing issue include water seeping through the walls, leaks in roof systems, or even a burst pipe. To prevent these problems from getting worse, you should have your own expert who knows how to fix them.

Insurance protects you from future problems.

Insurance is the most important factor for using a plumber because it protects you from any potential problems. Plumbing problems can lead to more significant problems in the future, so insurance will protect you from those unwanted surprises. If an issue needs to be fixed, make sure your insurance company covers it. With no insurance coverage, not only will one have to make up the cost of a service or repair, but also have to pay out of pocket for any other necessary repairs and services. If a plumbing problem requires more than one service or repair, the insurance will cover it. So if there are pipes under your sink that need repairing and replacing in order to maintain water flow, it is good to ensure insurance covers this; otherwise, one will be stuck with an expensive bill.

One will always know who to call when something goes wrong.

A plumber is a business, so it’s important to choose a company that has experience in the area of service. One will want to hire someone who knows the ins and outs of what a home needs. You don’t always have the expertise to make these decisions yourself. That’s why you should consider hiring someone with experience. Hiring an experienced plumber ensures that you’re getting the most out of your decision. They have knowledge of plumbing, know their way around your home, and can make sure they’re doing all the necessary things to fix any problems that arise during their work. Working with a professional means you’ll get expert advice on how to prevent future problems too. They have access to up-to-date technology, which can help make your home more efficient. They will give you suggestions on how to maintain your home better so that you won’t have to worry about any future issues.

Plumbers offer warranties and guarantees

This can be very cheaper than paying for any additional repairs down the road because of faulty service. Having the right tools and supplies will get the job done faster, so you won’t have to wait around for an unexpected plumbing issue. When you hire an experienced plumber, they’ll advise you on the best way to repair your plumbing problem. If a leaky pipe needs to be fixed, a plumber will typically recommend a few different options. Working with an expert can help you avoid more costly problems in the future. A plumber’s insurance policy may cover any damages that may occur during their work, so it’s worth hiring one for your home or business.

Your experience with the plumber will be more pleasant.

The experience you have with your plumber will depend on the type of plumber you hire. If you hire someone who isn’t experienced, then there is a good chance that they won’t be able to help you in the way it is needed. This can lead to a more unpleasant experience and more problems.
If you hire an experienced plumber, they will be highly skilled and knowledgeable in their field. They will also know exactly what needs to be done in order to fix any problem that arises during the project. The more experienced a plumber is, the more likely they will avoid any future issues and ensure your plumbing project goes off without a hitch.
Additionally, suppose you hire an inexperienced plumber. In that case, the service will likely take longer than expected, and there’s a high chance of them not being able to fix whatever problem has arisen. This can be very frustrating for customers who have paid for an expensive service without receiving value in return.

The tools and supplies will get the job done faster and better.

This will help you finish your plumbing project quicker and better. In some cases, the right tools might even prevent future problems. Using the wrong tools or supplies can lead to costly repairs down the line. So if you do decide to hire a plumber, make sure they have the right tools and supplies with them.

Allows continuous water supply.

If you’re on a limited income, it can be difficult to afford high utility bills. Having a well pump service and water tank in your home might be just what you need to reduce your monthly expenses. You might also want to install one because you live in an area where it’s hard to get water from a municipal supply source. In these cases, it may be necessary for you to install your own private system of water supply. A third reason is if your municipality has had mandatory restrictions on the number of people who are allowed access to their public water supply at any given time. After this restriction has been reached, then all customers will have their taps turned off until the restriction has ended. This means that you will not have access to running water for your whole house or even just one room of your home during this time period. In this situation, it is good to have a plumber who will be carefully monitoring the water supply in your home.

Image of a well installed near southern maine

What should you know before getting a plumber?

When you’re ready to hire a plumber, there are some important questions and issues that you should know about before doing so. If you’re hiring a professional plumber, these things will help you ensure that the job gets done right.

How long have they been in business? – You need to make sure that your plumber has been in business for more than five years. This will ensure that they have experience and a good reputation among customers.
What is their licensing status? – You want to ensure that your plumber is licensed and insured. These are important factors in ensuring safety when working on your plumbing system.

What type of plumbing services do they offer? – Your plumber will carry out many different services such as drain cleaning or installation. Make sure your plumber offers the service that you need.

Is the company trustworthy? – Make sure you trust your contractor before hiring them. The company’s reputation and reviews from previous customers can give you an indication of how good their work is.

Conclusion

Households today rely heavily on their water supply and the well pump that supplies it. To keep your home water system running efficiently and to avoid potential health problems, it is important to have a well pump and water tank installed and maintained by a professional plumber.

Tips That Will Help You Find The Best Solar Water Heating System

2021 Guide to Solar Water Heater Systems - EcoWatch

Many people are switching over from electric water heaters to solar water heating systems due to their so many advantages. This has brought out a lot of competitors for solar water heaters in the market. Even though most people go by recommendations from other people to choose a product for themselves, a solar water heating system should be bought after a lot of consideration. Given below are some tips that will help you choose a good solar water heating system.

Do Research

This is the first step and the most important one to know which one suits your needs best. The internet will come in very handy for this. You can easily search the topmost competitors of a solar water heater in your location. Search each of them and see which one has the benefits to offer.

Check The Reviews And Recommendations

Always choose at least 2-3 competitors from the internet that are the best in the market. While choosing from them you can check their reviews on the internet. Go through their websites and see if their clients are satisfied with their services. Most companies are transparent enough nowadays to let you know about their reputation in the market. If your chosen competitor has a lot of good reviews and recommendations, you can choose them.

Contact The Manufacturer

A Complete Guide to Solar Water Heaters | Solar Metric

Once you have come down to one option, you can take the next step and contact the manufacturer. You can easily contact them through their websites or any other listing site. Talking to them will give you a more clear idea of whether choosing them has been the right step or not.

Ask About The Installation Process

The whole installation process should be taken care of by the company itself. Make sure you learn beforehand what kind of services they provide and if they are willing to install them for you at your home. They will also be able to tell you the best place to install it at your residence once they check out the place to help you get the best from your solar water heating system.

Check The Warranty Period

Solar Water Heaters | Department of Energy

A solar water heating system is usually a long-time investment. So, lastly, check out the warranty period your company is giving you. Usually, a solar water heating system tends to work smoothly for at least 15 years. If your company is providing you with a satisfying warranty period, you have chosen the perfect system for yourself.

So, check out all these things and choose your solar water heating system very carefully.

Benefits of Solar Water Heaters

Why should you choose solar water heaters for your home or business? Here are some of the biggest benefits of investing in a solar hot water system.

Benefits of Solar-Powered Water Heaters

Free Energy

Once you invest in a solar hot water heater, you’ll start to get that money back in the form of free energy. The typical home will see an average of at least a 50% reduction in water-heating electricity use. If you live somewhere that gets a lot of suns, like Arizona, you could see as much as a 90% decrease in your water-heating bill.

Who wouldn’t want to save money and get free energy?

Reduced Carbon Footprint

The general consensus is that climate change is occurring and that carbon emissions are a major contributing factor. A solar water heater uses the renewable energy of the sun to warm up your home’s water.

If you can use solar energy to heat up water, that’s less fossil fuel or natural gas being used and released into the atmosphere from traditional electric or gas water heaters. That means you’ll be helping save the environment in addition to lowering your gas or electric bill.

High Efficiency

Heating up your water directly from the sun’s rays is much more efficient than converting sunlight into energy that is then used to warm up your home’s water. Why take two steps to heat up your water when you can do it in one step?

They Take up Less Space than Traditional Solar Panels

Since solar water heaters are more efficient than traditional solar panels, the average home only requires one to three solar water heater panels. If you don’t love the idea of your entire roof is covered in solar panels, then a solar hot water heater may be a great option.

They’re Cheaper than Solar PV Panels

Since you need fewer solar water heater panels, they’re much cheaper to install than traditional solar PV panels. If you can help save the environment and reduce your gas or electric bills for a lower initial cost, then what’s holding you back from making that investment?

Cost Of Solar Water Heater In India

Contact Us Today to Learn More!

Does a solar hot water heater sound like it’s right for you? Contact us today to learn more about how your home or office could benefit from a solar water heating system. We would love to help you find the best solar solutions for you since solar energy is our passion.

For more information, click here or call us now!

Solar hot-water systems

Next time you get a really big electricity or gas bill, your thoughts may turn to solar panels. Wouldn’t it be good if you could catch all the power you need from the Sun? Millions of people already do get their energy this way, though mostly in the form of heat rather than electricity. Solar electric panels (also called solar cells or photovoltaic cells) that convert sunlight to electricity are only just becoming really popular; solar thermal panels, which use sunlight to produce hot water, have been commonplace for decades. Even in relatively cold, northern climates, solar hot-water systems can chop significant amounts off your fuel bills. Typical systems generate anything from 10–90 percent of your hot water and pay for themselves in about 10–15 years (even sooner if you’re using them for something like a swimming pool). Let’s take a closer look at how they work!

How to build a solar heating system

Imagine you’re an inventor charged with the problem of developing a system that can heat all the hot water you need in your home. You’ve probably noticed that water takes a long time to heat up? That’s because it holds heat energy very well. We say it has a high specific heat capacity and that’s why we use it to transport heat energy in central heating systems. So can we devise a simple solar heating system using water alone?

Stand a plastic bottle filled with cold water in a window, in the Sun, and it’ll warm up quite noticeably in a few hours. The trouble is, a bottle of water isn’t going to go very far if you’ve a house full of people. How can you make more hot water? The simplest solution would be to fill lots of bottles with water and stand them in a row on your window-ledge.

Or maybe you could be more cunning. What if you cut the top and bottom off a plastic bottle and fitted pipes at each end, feeding the pipes into your home’s hot water tank to make a complete water circuit. Now fit a pump somewhere in that loop so the water endlessly circulates. What will happen is that the sunlight will systematically heat all the hot water in your tank (although it’ll never get particularly warm because plastic bottles standing on window-ledges aren’t that brilliant at collecting heat). But, in theory, you’ve got a working solar heating system here that’s not a million miles away from the ones people have installed on their homes. It’s very crude, but it works in exactly the same way.

The parts of a solar-thermal hot-water system

In practice, solar heating systems are a little bit more sophisticated than this. These are the main parts:

Collector

Photo of flat-plate solar thermal collector on house roof.

Photo: A typical solar hot water panel uses a flat-plate collector like this. Photo by Alan Ford, courtesy of US Department of Energy/National Renewable Energy Laboratory (DOE/NREL).

This is the technical name for the big black panel that sits on your roof. Smaller homes (or ones in hotter climates) can get away with much smaller panels than larger homes (or ones in colder climates); typically collectors vary in size from about 2–15 square meters (~20–160 square feet). Not surprisingly, collectors work most efficiently on roofs that have a direct, unblocked view of the Sun (with few trees or buildings in the way). Broadly speaking, there are two types of collectors known as flat-plate and evacuated tube.

Flat-plate collectors

Flat plates are the simplest collectors: at their most basic, they’re little more than water pipes running through shallow metal boxes coated with thick black glass. The glass collects and traps the heat (like a greenhouse), which the water running through the pipes picks up and transfers to your hot water tank.

Evacuated tubes

These are a bit more sophisticated. They look like a row of side-by-side fluorescent strip lights, except that they absorb light rather than giving it out. Each tube in the row is actually made of two glass tubes, an inner one and an outer one, separated by an insulating vacuum space (like vacuum flasks). The inner tube is coated with a light-absorbing chemical and filled with a copper conductor and a volatile fluid that heats up, evaporates, carries its heat up the inner tube to a collecting device (called a manifold) at the top, where it condenses and returns to the bottom of the tube pick up more heat. The manifold collects the heat from the whole row of tubes and ferries it to your hot water tank. Unlike flat-plate collectors, evacuated tubes don’t let as much heat escape back out again, so they’re more efficient. However, since they’re a bit more hi-tech and sophisticated, they are usually much more expensive.

Photo of evacuated tube solar thermal collector on house roof. Patent artwork from US Patent 4,474,170 showing the key components of an evacuated-tube type solar hot water panel.
Photo: An evacuated-tube collector. Note the gray manifold at the top and the white water pipe flowing through it. Photo by Kent Bullard, courtesy of US National Park Service and US Department of Energy/National Renewable Energy Laboratory (DOE/NREL). Artwork: How it works: a number of parallel, evacuated tubes (blue) receive concentrated solar energy from parabolic reflectors either side (yellow), which they send to a combined heat-exchanger and manifold (brown), through which hot water (or some other fluid) flows from entry and exit pipes. Artwork from US Patent 4,474,170: Glass heat pipe evacuated tube solar collector by Robert D. McConnell and James H. Vansant , US Department of Energy, October 2, 1984.

How an evacuated tube collector works.

Artwork: A closer look at how an evacuated tube collector works. 1) The copper in the inner tube absorbs solar heat and evaporates the volatile fluid. 2) The evaporated fluid rises up the tube to the manifold at the top and gives up its heat. 3) Water flowing through the manifold picks up heat from all the tubes plugged into it. 4) The fluid condenses and falls back down the tube to repeat the process.

Hot water tank

There’s no point in collecting heat from your roof if you have nowhere to store it. With luck, your home already has a hot-water tank (unless you have a so-called gas “combi” boiler that makes instant hot water) that can be used to store heat from your collector; it’s a kind of “hot water” battery that you heat up at conveniently economic times (usually at night) ready for use during the day. If you don’t have a hot-water tank, you’ll need to have one fitted. The more people in your household, the bigger the tank you’ll need. A typical tank for a family home might be about 100–200 liters (30–60 gallons).

Heat exchanger

Typically, solar panels work by transferring heat from the collector to the tank through a separate circuit and a heat exchanger. Heat collected by the panel heats up water (or oil or another fluid) that flows through a circuit of pipes into a copper coil inside your hot-water tank. The heat is then passed into the hot water tank, and the cooled water (or fluid) returns to the collector to pick up more heat. The water in the collector never actually drains into your tank: at no point does water that’s been on your roof exit through a faucet!

Photo of solar-thermal energy collectors using mirrors and water pipes.

Photo: A different and much bigger solar hot-water system. This one uses parabolic mirrors to collect the Sun’s energy and focus it onto water pipes running through their centers. The water is pumped back to the building in the background (Jefferson County Jail in Golden, Colorado). Photo by Warren Gretz courtesy of US Department of Energy/National Renewable Energy Laboratory (DOE/NREL).

Pump

Water doesn’t flow between the collector and the tank all by itself: you need a small electric pump to make it circulate. If you’re using ordinary electricity to make the water flow, the energy consumed by the pump will offset some of the advantage of using solar-thermal power, reduce the gains you’re making, and lengthen the payback time. Cleverly, some solar-thermal systems use solar-electric (photovoltaic) pumps instead, which means they are entirely running on renewable energy. A good thing about a design like this is that the solar pump is most active on really sunny days (when most hot water is being produced) and less active on cold, dull days (when, perhaps, you don’t want your solar panel to be working at all).

Control system

If it’s the middle of winter and your roof is freezing cold, the last you thing you want is to transfer freezing cold water into your hot water tank! So there is also generally a control system attached to a solar-thermal panel with a valve that can switch off the water circuit in cold weather. A typical control system may incorporate some or all of the following: a pump, flowmeter, pressure gauge, thermometer (so you can see how hot the water is), and thermostat (to switch off the pump if the water gets too hot).

How solar-thermal panels work

In theory

Here’s a simple summary of how rooftop solar hot-water panels work:

Diagram showing how a solar panel makes hot water on a house roof.
  1. In the simplest panels, Sun heats water flowing in a circuit through the collector (the panel on your roof).
  2. The water leaving the collector is hotter than the water entering it and carries its heat toward your hot water tank.
  3. The water doesn’t actually enter your tank and fill it up. Instead, it flows into a pipe on one side of the tank and out of another pipe on the other side, passing through a coil of copper pipes (the heat exchanger) inside the tank and giving up its heat on the way through.
  4. You can run off hot water from the tank at any time without affecting the panel’s operation. Since the panel won’t make heat all the time, your tank will need another source of heating as well—usually either a gas boiler or an electric immersion heater.
  5. The cold water from the heat exchanger returns to the panel to pick up more heat.
  6. An electric pump (powered by your ordinary electricity supply or by a solar-electric (photovoltaic) cell on the roof keeps the water moving through the circuit between the collector and the water tank.

In practice

Diagram showing a typical single-pipe solar hot water system, from US patent 4191329 by Solartech Systems Corporation

Artwork: A single-pipe solar heating system. Artwork from US Patent 4,191,329: Single-pipe hot water solar system by William E. Geaslin, Solartech Systems Corporation, published March 4, 1980, courtesy of US Patent and Trademark Office.

Of course, it’s a bit more complicated than this! What if it’s winter and there’s no useful solar heat outside? You don’t want the solar system pumping cold water down into your home, but you still need hot water. And what if it’s really cold? You’ll need to stop your solar system from freezing up, so it would be useful to pump hot water from your home through it occasionally. That’s why a typical solar system will look more like this one, with two interlinked water circuits. One (purple) pumps water through a solar panel as we saw above and down into a tank inside your home. This is connected to a second circuit (red) with a conventional hot water tank that can be heated by electricity, a natural gas furnace, or some other standard form of heating. On hot days, you effectively capture hot water in the purple circuit and then divert it around the red circuit into your home. On cold days, you can switch off the purple circuit using various valves or divert water from the red circuit through the purple circuit to stop it from freezing.

How good is solar thermal?

… One of the most effective and efficient steps the government can take is to encourage the use of solar hot-water systems—a well-developed and relatively low-tech method for using the sun’s energy.”

Larry Hunter, The New York Times (Op Ed), 2009

In pure efficiency terms, solar-thermal panels are over three times as efficient (50 percent or so) at harvesting energy as solar-electric (photovoltaic) panels (typically around 15 percent), but that doesn’t mean they’re three times better: it all depends what you want from solar energy. If you live in the kind of family home where people are taking baths and showers all the time, especially in summer, solar thermal makes perfect sense. A decent system should be able to produce around half to two thirds of a home’s total, annual hot water needs (all your hot water in the height of summer and very much less in winter). The obvious drawback of solar thermal is that it produces nothing but hot water—and you can only do so much with that; unlike photovoltaics, solar-thermal panels can’t help you heat your home or produce truly versatile, high-quality energy in the form of electricity. The typical payback time for solar thermal (when your original capital investment has paid for itself in fuel savings) is about a decade, with a range of 5–15 years (depending on the cost of the fuel you’re saving, how much sun your home gets, and how much hot water you use).

Here’s a very rough comparison of the payback times for different types of green energy. It does depend entirely on what you’re installing, what you’re replacing, what existing fuel you’re not using instead, how much you used the old and new systems, and various other factors (such as tax incentives), so please don’t take the figures too literally.

MeasurePayback
Solar hot water5–30 years
Solar photo voltaic8–25 years
Loft insulation2–5 years
Cavity wall insulation2–3 years
Small wind turbine5–15 years
Ground source heat pump10–50 years
Wood burner2–5 years

8 Tips for Hiring a Contractor

Tom Silva This Old House Contractor

Tom Silva, This Old House general contractor, shares how homeowners should evaluate a potential contractor before hiring him or her to work on a house. Here are his top 8 pro tips to help you find a contractor from start to finish.

1. Get Recommendations

Start with your friends and family and then check in with the National Association of the Remodeling Industry for a list of members in your area. You can also talk with a building inspector, who’ll know which home renovation contractors routinely meet code requirements, says This Old House general contractor Tom Silva, or pay a visit to your local lumberyard, which sees contractors regularly and knows which ones buy quality materials and pay their bills on time.

2. Do Phone Interviews

Once you’ve assembled a list, Tom recommends that you make a quick call to each of your prospects and go through these questions to ask a contractor:

  • Do they take on projects of your size?
  • Are they willing to provide financial references, from suppliers or banks?
  • Can they give you a list of previous clients?
  • How many other projects would they have going at the same time?
  • How long have they worked with their subcontractors?

The answers to these questions will reveal the company’s availability, reliability, how much attention they’ll be able to give your project, and how smoothly the work will go.

3. Meet Face to Face

Based on the phone interviews, pick three or four contractors to meet for estimates and further discussion. A contractor should be able to answer your questions satisfactorily and in a manner that puts you at ease. Tom says that it’s crucial that you two communicate well because this person will be in your home for hours at a time. On the other hand, don’t let personality fool you. Check-in with your state’s consumer protection agency and your local Better Business Bureau before you hire a contractor to make sure they don’t have a history of disputes with clients or subcontractors.

4. Investigate the Facts

Now that you’ve narrowed your list, put your research to use. Call up former clients to find how their project went and ask to see the finished product. But Tom says you shouldn’t rely on results alone. Even more important, visit a current job site and see for yourself how the contractor works. Is the job site neat and safe? Are workers courteous and careful with the homeowner’s property?

5. Make Plans, Get Bids

You have your shortlist of contractors whose track records seem clean and whose work ethic looks responsible. Now it’s time to stop looking back at past work and start looking forward to your project. A conscientious contractor will want not only a complete set of blueprints but also a sense of what homeowners want out of a project and what they plan to spend. To compare bids, ask everyone to break down the cost of materials, labor, profit margins, and other expenses. Generally, materials account for 40 percent of the total cost; the rest covers overhead and the typical profit margin, which is 15 to 20 percent.

6. Set a Payment Schedule

Another important tip for hiring a contractor is to work out a payment schedule ahead of time. Payment schedules can speak to a contractor’s financial status and work ethic. If they want half the bid upfront, they may have financial problems or be worried that you won’t pay the rest after you’ve seen the work. For large projects, a schedule usually starts with 10 percent at contract signing, three payments of 25 percent evenly spaced over the duration of the project, and a check for the final 15 percent when you feel every item on the punch list has been completed.

7. Don’t Let Price Be Your Guide

“Throw out the lowball bid,” says Tom. “This contractor is probably cutting corners or, worse, desperate for work”—hardly an encouraging sign in a healthy economy. Beyond technical competence, comfort should play an equal or greater role in your decision. The single most important factor in choosing a contractor is how well you and he communicate. All things being equal, it’s better to spend more and get someone you’re comfortable with when hiring a contractor.

8. Put it in Writing

Draw up a contract that details every step of the project: payment schedule; proof of liability insurance and worker’s compensation payments; a start date and projected completion date; specific materials and products to be used; and a requirement that the contractor obtains lien releases (which protect you if he doesn’t pay his bills) from all subcontractors and suppliers. Insisting on a clear contract isn’t about mistrust, Tom assures us. It’s about ensuring a successful renovation.

Finally, remember that as soon as a change is made or a problem is uncovered, the price just increased and the project just got longer. The four most expensive words in the English language? “While you’re at it….”

If you are finding a good home improvement contractor, just contact us for more information.